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SBH Insider
Just returned from an excellent week cruising around the BVI on a Moorings/Sunsail (for those interested in the difference) 4500L catamaran and wanted to share some thoughts about this very cool way to explore these islands. This was a family trip - my folks took my wife and me along with my two brothers and their wives.
Flew DFW-MIA-EIS through AA and this was pretty painless outside of the overnight stay Thursday night at the Pullman Miami Airport (I didn't book this, would avoid). The Moorings base is at Road Harbour on Tortola. As previously discussed on this site Tradewind is now flying into Tortola and Virgin Gorda so this would be another option through SJU - I think we had already booked our flights when this was announced but this would obviously be very nice and would cut out a leg for most.
Dropped bags and went to the pool bar for drinks/light bites and waited for the rest of our crew to get in from separate itineraries. Spent that night at the Moorings base, the rooms were quite comfortable, very convenient and the AC worked. Ate at Pusser's, great way to kick off the trip.
Saturday we had a leisurely morning as we could not get on the boat any sooner than noon. Had most of our groceries delivered but picked up a few self-selected cold items and ice etc. They gave us a brand new boat that had not been previously chartered. Loaded on, had a quite extensive briefing with one of the Moorings folks, got a few kinks worked out, and finally underway. Sailed that afternoon to Norman and got a ball in Bight Bay, hit the Willy T, jumped off the top deck right by the "no jumping" signs (clothes on, family trip), then back to the boat to change and head in for dinner. Pirates Bight that night was excellent, the crowd was buzzing, fun atmosphere, watched the Longhorns lose (I'm no Georgia/SEC fan but it's a big tie for who is more fun to watch lose, the Longhorns or Aggies), the ribs were outstanding, whole restaurant singalong to Sweet Caroline. Couldn't think of better first-island stop.
Sunday we got up and set sail for Virgin Gorda to hit the Baths. Balls are sparse here, and you can't dinghy right onto the beach, so there's a bit of a swim to get on shore the most direct way. They've changed the way they want you to go - now you're supposed to walk up to the Top of the Baths, pay $3/head, then walk through, then walk back up to the Top. We did it the old way. For the first-timers on the trip this was a big hit. Refreshing pool and solid burger at the Top with some nice shops. Back to the boat and popped around the west side of VG to North Sound Harbour for a mooring at the Bitter End. They are still rebuilding but have two restaurants and their signature logo shop and diving/watersports/etc set up. Went over to Saba for a bit, cool little island with a good shop but tiny, restaurant wraps around a quarter of the island and is right on the water, would've been cool to eat there but they were blaring Kesha and so we were relieved when they couldn't get us in until late. Nice meal at the Buoy Room, we did get rained on but they ended up moving us to a covered patio area and were very accommodating. Food was good, nice setting.
Up Monday morning to head off to Anegada, a really cool sail where if you don't look behind you after heading away from VG it seems as if there is nothing in front of you until Ireland. Slowly the very flat island will come into view. Snagged a ball (BoatyBall is your friend) and dinghied on to head to Loblolly Bay for snorkeling and beach time. I rented a scooter - that was a blast. The island is pretty unique, certainly inhabited but at parts seems it was left to time long ago, with half-finished houses and broken down cars in their grown-over front yards, abandoned schools and medical clinics...and then you'll come upon a beach club. Saw flamingos from a distance in Red Pond. Water was not as clam as I'd like for leisurely snorkeling. Back to the boat then to Potters for lobster, which was excellent. I don't really crave lobster but when in Anegada you get lobster and this was very enjoyable.
Tuesday morning I got up early because sunrises at Anegada are legendary, and this one did not disappoint. After a leisurely morning we left for what would be a very long sail to the east side of Jost Van Dyke, with a first (anchored) stop at Sandy Spit (had the island to ourselves!) before mooring in Diamond Cay. Found several hermit crabs on the spit and tons of conch off the west side, which really was the only safe area for snorkeling. Pretty cool little stop. Foxy's Taboo was great that night, had their catch of the day which was snapper and it was the best fish dish I had all week. At night when you look from the boat it seems as if the restaurant is the only thing on the island, in the middle of nowhere.
Wednesday morning we left early to try and secure a ball at White Bay over toward the west side of JVD where they don't have any BoatyBalls and got there to find a few options thankfully. This was the best beach area of our trip. We were here for two nights. The first day we spent over on the east side of the bay in some loungers belonging to Ivan's Stress Free Bar, where the chef told me as long as we supported the bar the chairs were free. It was almost as if we had a whole beach to ourselves. The west side beach, separated by a short and walkable section of rocks, was much, much busier that day as that is where Soggy Dollar is, and there was also a cruise ship there that day ferrying people in from a little further out, so we stayed away. It was pretty idyllic Caribbean over at Ivan's. The food was great, the drinks were cheap. Hard to beat. We took a taxi over to Foxy's that night, always a great atmosphere. Ribs, their specialty, were fine, but the order I had at Norman was better. Karaoke there that night. I sang "Drivin' My Life Away" by Eddie Rabbitt after much prodding by my family. I was told it went well. I'm not so sure.
Thursday morning we did massages at Ocean Spa, a floating spa with 4 treatment rooms and holy smokes, it was amazing. I went into it thinking it was going to be touristy but no, incredible massage, wind blowing pleasantly, a see-through plexiglass floor where I could watch sergeant majors swimming by, and an excellent therapist, Rose. One of the best massages I've ever had, blew the recent spa in Santa Fe (a purported spa "destination") out of the water for a fraction of the price. Went to the west side of the beach after a light lunch and entered the throngs. It was very busy but the bar service at Soggy Dollar was pretty quick all things considered. Definitely the "hopping" spot if you're into that. Hung out there until late afternoon, then went back to boat to tidy up before dinner at Hendo's Hideout, which was excellent. It was sushi night and we all partook, but for me the chicken wings in their signature sauce stole the show. Really nice spot and ambiance, enjoyed this meal quite a bit.
Friday we popped over to Soper's Hole for some shopping, there's a nice cafe there with good coffee, sandwiches, pastries, etc. We then went down to The Indians just northwest of Norman, which is phenomenal snorkeling. Saw tons of fish, and there is a tunnel, or extended hole, or whatever you want to call it that you can dive down and swim through for a bit of a thrill. Would not miss this, best snorkeling we did. Moored at Cooper that night and had a nice meal there at the Beach Club, where the food was decent but not my favorite meal. Just one fish, mahi, and it was okay. They have a rum bar there with an enormous selection.
Saturday we returned to Road Harbour to drop off the boat. Easy if winding taxi ride back to airport and back to the US. It was an excellent trip and just has to be the best way to do the BVI. My folks have done 20+ of these trips over the years and keep going back.
I figured it was time to fire up the ol' BVI forum after a prolonged dry spell. We will be back on this trip with friends hopefully in the next few years. It is very cool to captain a 45 foot catamaran and know how to work the sails, dock, hook up to a mooring ball, navigate, tack, etc. Island hopping and the freedom that gives is hard to beat. This is decidedly "roughing it" compared to a spacious and comfortable villa overlooking Gouverneur or a stay at Eden Rock but it's good to get your hands dirty, and maybe a little rope-burned, sometimes.
Sailing to Anegada (feet removed, iykyk)
Anegada sunrise
Ivan's Stress Free Bar. I think this is my favorite picture I took. Felt like a true beach bum listening to island Christmas music and drinking Miller Lites.
Flew DFW-MIA-EIS through AA and this was pretty painless outside of the overnight stay Thursday night at the Pullman Miami Airport (I didn't book this, would avoid). The Moorings base is at Road Harbour on Tortola. As previously discussed on this site Tradewind is now flying into Tortola and Virgin Gorda so this would be another option through SJU - I think we had already booked our flights when this was announced but this would obviously be very nice and would cut out a leg for most.
Dropped bags and went to the pool bar for drinks/light bites and waited for the rest of our crew to get in from separate itineraries. Spent that night at the Moorings base, the rooms were quite comfortable, very convenient and the AC worked. Ate at Pusser's, great way to kick off the trip.
Saturday we had a leisurely morning as we could not get on the boat any sooner than noon. Had most of our groceries delivered but picked up a few self-selected cold items and ice etc. They gave us a brand new boat that had not been previously chartered. Loaded on, had a quite extensive briefing with one of the Moorings folks, got a few kinks worked out, and finally underway. Sailed that afternoon to Norman and got a ball in Bight Bay, hit the Willy T, jumped off the top deck right by the "no jumping" signs (clothes on, family trip), then back to the boat to change and head in for dinner. Pirates Bight that night was excellent, the crowd was buzzing, fun atmosphere, watched the Longhorns lose (I'm no Georgia/SEC fan but it's a big tie for who is more fun to watch lose, the Longhorns or Aggies), the ribs were outstanding, whole restaurant singalong to Sweet Caroline. Couldn't think of better first-island stop.
Sunday we got up and set sail for Virgin Gorda to hit the Baths. Balls are sparse here, and you can't dinghy right onto the beach, so there's a bit of a swim to get on shore the most direct way. They've changed the way they want you to go - now you're supposed to walk up to the Top of the Baths, pay $3/head, then walk through, then walk back up to the Top. We did it the old way. For the first-timers on the trip this was a big hit. Refreshing pool and solid burger at the Top with some nice shops. Back to the boat and popped around the west side of VG to North Sound Harbour for a mooring at the Bitter End. They are still rebuilding but have two restaurants and their signature logo shop and diving/watersports/etc set up. Went over to Saba for a bit, cool little island with a good shop but tiny, restaurant wraps around a quarter of the island and is right on the water, would've been cool to eat there but they were blaring Kesha and so we were relieved when they couldn't get us in until late. Nice meal at the Buoy Room, we did get rained on but they ended up moving us to a covered patio area and were very accommodating. Food was good, nice setting.
Up Monday morning to head off to Anegada, a really cool sail where if you don't look behind you after heading away from VG it seems as if there is nothing in front of you until Ireland. Slowly the very flat island will come into view. Snagged a ball (BoatyBall is your friend) and dinghied on to head to Loblolly Bay for snorkeling and beach time. I rented a scooter - that was a blast. The island is pretty unique, certainly inhabited but at parts seems it was left to time long ago, with half-finished houses and broken down cars in their grown-over front yards, abandoned schools and medical clinics...and then you'll come upon a beach club. Saw flamingos from a distance in Red Pond. Water was not as clam as I'd like for leisurely snorkeling. Back to the boat then to Potters for lobster, which was excellent. I don't really crave lobster but when in Anegada you get lobster and this was very enjoyable.
Tuesday morning I got up early because sunrises at Anegada are legendary, and this one did not disappoint. After a leisurely morning we left for what would be a very long sail to the east side of Jost Van Dyke, with a first (anchored) stop at Sandy Spit (had the island to ourselves!) before mooring in Diamond Cay. Found several hermit crabs on the spit and tons of conch off the west side, which really was the only safe area for snorkeling. Pretty cool little stop. Foxy's Taboo was great that night, had their catch of the day which was snapper and it was the best fish dish I had all week. At night when you look from the boat it seems as if the restaurant is the only thing on the island, in the middle of nowhere.
Wednesday morning we left early to try and secure a ball at White Bay over toward the west side of JVD where they don't have any BoatyBalls and got there to find a few options thankfully. This was the best beach area of our trip. We were here for two nights. The first day we spent over on the east side of the bay in some loungers belonging to Ivan's Stress Free Bar, where the chef told me as long as we supported the bar the chairs were free. It was almost as if we had a whole beach to ourselves. The west side beach, separated by a short and walkable section of rocks, was much, much busier that day as that is where Soggy Dollar is, and there was also a cruise ship there that day ferrying people in from a little further out, so we stayed away. It was pretty idyllic Caribbean over at Ivan's. The food was great, the drinks were cheap. Hard to beat. We took a taxi over to Foxy's that night, always a great atmosphere. Ribs, their specialty, were fine, but the order I had at Norman was better. Karaoke there that night. I sang "Drivin' My Life Away" by Eddie Rabbitt after much prodding by my family. I was told it went well. I'm not so sure.
Thursday morning we did massages at Ocean Spa, a floating spa with 4 treatment rooms and holy smokes, it was amazing. I went into it thinking it was going to be touristy but no, incredible massage, wind blowing pleasantly, a see-through plexiglass floor where I could watch sergeant majors swimming by, and an excellent therapist, Rose. One of the best massages I've ever had, blew the recent spa in Santa Fe (a purported spa "destination") out of the water for a fraction of the price. Went to the west side of the beach after a light lunch and entered the throngs. It was very busy but the bar service at Soggy Dollar was pretty quick all things considered. Definitely the "hopping" spot if you're into that. Hung out there until late afternoon, then went back to boat to tidy up before dinner at Hendo's Hideout, which was excellent. It was sushi night and we all partook, but for me the chicken wings in their signature sauce stole the show. Really nice spot and ambiance, enjoyed this meal quite a bit.
Friday we popped over to Soper's Hole for some shopping, there's a nice cafe there with good coffee, sandwiches, pastries, etc. We then went down to The Indians just northwest of Norman, which is phenomenal snorkeling. Saw tons of fish, and there is a tunnel, or extended hole, or whatever you want to call it that you can dive down and swim through for a bit of a thrill. Would not miss this, best snorkeling we did. Moored at Cooper that night and had a nice meal there at the Beach Club, where the food was decent but not my favorite meal. Just one fish, mahi, and it was okay. They have a rum bar there with an enormous selection.
Saturday we returned to Road Harbour to drop off the boat. Easy if winding taxi ride back to airport and back to the US. It was an excellent trip and just has to be the best way to do the BVI. My folks have done 20+ of these trips over the years and keep going back.
I figured it was time to fire up the ol' BVI forum after a prolonged dry spell. We will be back on this trip with friends hopefully in the next few years. It is very cool to captain a 45 foot catamaran and know how to work the sails, dock, hook up to a mooring ball, navigate, tack, etc. Island hopping and the freedom that gives is hard to beat. This is decidedly "roughing it" compared to a spacious and comfortable villa overlooking Gouverneur or a stay at Eden Rock but it's good to get your hands dirty, and maybe a little rope-burned, sometimes.
Sailing to Anegada (feet removed, iykyk)
Anegada sunrise
Ivan's Stress Free Bar. I think this is my favorite picture I took. Felt like a true beach bum listening to island Christmas music and drinking Miller Lites.
. Crewed charters are available.
