We are nearly 2 weeks into our 4 week stay. How fortunate we are!
we arrived feb 7, it took us 12 hours door to door to get here from Boston. Delayed getting out due to snow. Delayed leaving San Juan due to rain. We landed at SBH 1 minute before the airport closes at 630pm, per the pilot. There was a wee bit on anxiety on board, as you can imagine. Since it was late, everyone wanted to close up shop, so check in, rental car, etc was done in like 5 minutes and we were on our way to get some provisions at places still open.
what followed was 4 days of rain, wind, and clouds. Not the ideal, for sure. So we went shopping, read books, idled about. It wasn’t horrible but when you want sun and dont get it day after day, it does affect your spirit. Because we are not trust fund babies and come from very modest backgrounds, we have to work, and work remotely every Wednesday to make this extended stay work. How lucky to be able to do that. Working here is not “fun”, lol, but way better than working from home or an office in snowy Boston.
since then, it’s seen sunny and wonderful. Beach days at Saline - strangely quiet most times - and St Jean - which was lovely last week and sort of awful this week. We stay at an old school villa with no marble or curated artwork on Marigot and flop around in the water there every day too.
mornings are pastry from pt Colombe, a walk or run, some yoga, so reading. And then a sandwich on the beach. Return chez nous for a drink and more sloth, and then off to dinner. (See other posts about dining if interested).
last week the island was fairly quiet as I remembered it being - this is our 23yrd year coming. Gasp. Restaurants weren’t full, reservations easy, traffic not Bad except for the 5pm rush hour. Sargassum was plentiful on Saline, Grand Fond, Marigot. Less so on St Jean. No worker bees removing it this year that we have seen.
i knew this week would be different due to carnival and school vacation week in lots of the US. And it has been. Traffic became suddenly insane. Back ups from the monoprix all the way to the airport and beyond. Cars aplenty. Scooters driving like mad. Which is sad because on 2/8 a 26 year old man died in a scooter accident early in the morning. There was a memorial service for him last Saturday at Grand Fond and I witnessed some of it from afar during my walk. So sad to see loss so young, and the throngs of attendees were shaken up. Still, this has not tamed scooter drivers, they are as reckless as ever.
tonight on our way home from bananiers, at the turns above st Jean toward lorient, a pick up truck was right on our tail and even flashed his lights at us cuz we were going too slow I guess? Then, a first for us, he passed us. On. The. Curve. With oncoming traffic honking at him.
i suppose the solution for this recklessness is more speed bumps. This is the island of speed bumps. We count them from Margot to the airport. 16.
the island is very busy this week, so many people, more than I remember. If this is what the holidays are like, then no thank you! St Jean beach yesterday was as busy as I’ve ever seen it, and I was stunned by the number of pre teen and teenage kids around. Old me tries to imagine being brought here at that age, lol. It’s beyond any imagination as my family was not monied in any way. Then there’s the problem of Nao Beach, my Most hated place besides Petite Plage. At 3 pm, when the crowd has thinned at the place, the music gets pumped up so loud you can hear it all up and down the beach making it impossible to have a relaxing beach moment. And worse, their music is absolutely awful. I just can’t with that place. You walk by on the way to your car and there are 2 people sort of dancing, and many others on the beach beds staring at their phones. This is a world that makes no sense to me at all. But I’m old now, i guess.
it’s been a wonderful 2 weeks so far, all in all. We feel rested, refreshed and are very much enjoying our time here. I know it’s changed, and I’m sad about that too. But nothing stays the same so your perspective has to change with it. We have a small condo in Provincetown MA. Outside corporations are moving up and buying up business and homes. Prices are going thru the roof. Workers can’t find housing. Income inequality is huge btw visitors and locals. Yachts in the harbor (unheard of 6 years ago). Still we go and we love it. Beyond the flash is the soul. And it’s the soul that draws us back. The flash will move on eventually. We hope.
in that regard, some words from locals we know that stick with me. “There is almost nowhere in Gustavia for me and my family to go out to eat anymore. It’s all too expensive for us, running a shop.” “The St Tropez style is not something we want here, it’s for some tourists and no one who actually lives here.” The island has been chasing the uber Wealthy client for a long time. At some point, it’s an island full of that, and then where is the soul? I feel this at home and in Provincetown where housing prices have skyrocketed to an extent we are stuck or we leave. (For reference, a 325 sq ft studio condo next door to us, with no parking and no outdoor space, is on the market for $750,000.). The vibe that attracts people slowly gets erased buy a never ending chase for money and the similarity with SBH is evident to us.
but for now, we are here and have no plans on going anywhere else. Maybe that’s the answer. Resist. And frequent local owned businesses, they need your money and support to stay afloat.
we arrived feb 7, it took us 12 hours door to door to get here from Boston. Delayed getting out due to snow. Delayed leaving San Juan due to rain. We landed at SBH 1 minute before the airport closes at 630pm, per the pilot. There was a wee bit on anxiety on board, as you can imagine. Since it was late, everyone wanted to close up shop, so check in, rental car, etc was done in like 5 minutes and we were on our way to get some provisions at places still open.
what followed was 4 days of rain, wind, and clouds. Not the ideal, for sure. So we went shopping, read books, idled about. It wasn’t horrible but when you want sun and dont get it day after day, it does affect your spirit. Because we are not trust fund babies and come from very modest backgrounds, we have to work, and work remotely every Wednesday to make this extended stay work. How lucky to be able to do that. Working here is not “fun”, lol, but way better than working from home or an office in snowy Boston.
since then, it’s seen sunny and wonderful. Beach days at Saline - strangely quiet most times - and St Jean - which was lovely last week and sort of awful this week. We stay at an old school villa with no marble or curated artwork on Marigot and flop around in the water there every day too.
mornings are pastry from pt Colombe, a walk or run, some yoga, so reading. And then a sandwich on the beach. Return chez nous for a drink and more sloth, and then off to dinner. (See other posts about dining if interested).
last week the island was fairly quiet as I remembered it being - this is our 23yrd year coming. Gasp. Restaurants weren’t full, reservations easy, traffic not Bad except for the 5pm rush hour. Sargassum was plentiful on Saline, Grand Fond, Marigot. Less so on St Jean. No worker bees removing it this year that we have seen.
i knew this week would be different due to carnival and school vacation week in lots of the US. And it has been. Traffic became suddenly insane. Back ups from the monoprix all the way to the airport and beyond. Cars aplenty. Scooters driving like mad. Which is sad because on 2/8 a 26 year old man died in a scooter accident early in the morning. There was a memorial service for him last Saturday at Grand Fond and I witnessed some of it from afar during my walk. So sad to see loss so young, and the throngs of attendees were shaken up. Still, this has not tamed scooter drivers, they are as reckless as ever.
tonight on our way home from bananiers, at the turns above st Jean toward lorient, a pick up truck was right on our tail and even flashed his lights at us cuz we were going too slow I guess? Then, a first for us, he passed us. On. The. Curve. With oncoming traffic honking at him.
i suppose the solution for this recklessness is more speed bumps. This is the island of speed bumps. We count them from Margot to the airport. 16.
the island is very busy this week, so many people, more than I remember. If this is what the holidays are like, then no thank you! St Jean beach yesterday was as busy as I’ve ever seen it, and I was stunned by the number of pre teen and teenage kids around. Old me tries to imagine being brought here at that age, lol. It’s beyond any imagination as my family was not monied in any way. Then there’s the problem of Nao Beach, my Most hated place besides Petite Plage. At 3 pm, when the crowd has thinned at the place, the music gets pumped up so loud you can hear it all up and down the beach making it impossible to have a relaxing beach moment. And worse, their music is absolutely awful. I just can’t with that place. You walk by on the way to your car and there are 2 people sort of dancing, and many others on the beach beds staring at their phones. This is a world that makes no sense to me at all. But I’m old now, i guess.
it’s been a wonderful 2 weeks so far, all in all. We feel rested, refreshed and are very much enjoying our time here. I know it’s changed, and I’m sad about that too. But nothing stays the same so your perspective has to change with it. We have a small condo in Provincetown MA. Outside corporations are moving up and buying up business and homes. Prices are going thru the roof. Workers can’t find housing. Income inequality is huge btw visitors and locals. Yachts in the harbor (unheard of 6 years ago). Still we go and we love it. Beyond the flash is the soul. And it’s the soul that draws us back. The flash will move on eventually. We hope.
in that regard, some words from locals we know that stick with me. “There is almost nowhere in Gustavia for me and my family to go out to eat anymore. It’s all too expensive for us, running a shop.” “The St Tropez style is not something we want here, it’s for some tourists and no one who actually lives here.” The island has been chasing the uber Wealthy client for a long time. At some point, it’s an island full of that, and then where is the soul? I feel this at home and in Provincetown where housing prices have skyrocketed to an extent we are stuck or we leave. (For reference, a 325 sq ft studio condo next door to us, with no parking and no outdoor space, is on the market for $750,000.). The vibe that attracts people slowly gets erased buy a never ending chase for money and the similarity with SBH is evident to us.
but for now, we are here and have no plans on going anywhere else. Maybe that’s the answer. Resist. And frequent local owned businesses, they need your money and support to stay afloat.



