Our family has made somewhere around 45 plus trips to SBH since first visting in 1983. Most were land based in a villa while quite a few were water based by boat. We always made the trek to Columbier on the low route after first trying the high route that first year which I thought at the time was fairly difficult and thick with undergrowth?? Now reading some of the threads here maybe we should take the high road??
We all took a 12 year break from the island thinking we had over done it but revisted in April this year. We did several hikes to Columbier and were moved a bit by some of the changes along the way. The path itself is still about the same but the deforestation (??) by the native goats was stunning! Wow. It was in the past so green and pretty. Now very different given the surge in the goat population. Land turtles are thriving and that was a cool change. Many hang out around the start of the trail.
When I was 30 we would hike to the beach with our two older kids (then 4 and 6) and stay for most of the day. The snorkeling was tremendous. The steps down to the beach were not washed away by storms and the reefs were vibrant with lots of coral, sponges and fish. Not uncommon to find an octupus or to be followed around by a curious barracuda or two. I cannot recall exactly what named storm or storms impacted the reefs in the late 90's and early 2000's but they (reefs) were so suddenly different. The bay must have just been pummeled. Snorkeling this year was dissapointing to say the least. The difference was concerning. Marginal 12 years ago but now even worse. Here's hoping that they will continue to rebuild and prosper. Still a most magnificent beach and certainly worth the hike but storms, super yachts and a more frequent charter trade in the bay has taken a toll on the reefs and the sea bottom itself. Things change.
When I turned 40 we had our last baby. We would put her in a baby carrier strapped to my back and we would hike in hoping to find that large rock formation on the beach open and some shade for her. I do not recall having ever been challenged on the walk in, even with a 25 pounder on my back. This year at 70 I must admit (and I am in pretty good shape) that the walk was more testy. Perhaps not enough time spent on the treadmill? Maybe my balance is not what it was? For sure. But, if you take your time and watch your footing its quite easy to master. A mini cardio work out in fact. One small pointer is when you get in sight of the beach after exiting the path, is that the lovely stone steps in front of you have been broken apart by the hurricanes so getting from the last step onto the beach is a bit of a test. Easier to walk slightly to the left when you come off the trail and drop in through some brush onto the beach. The storms have left a series of large rocks around the bottom of the steps that you need to navigate around. Prior to the barrage of hurricanes you once simply walked down the steps and plunked yourself on that marvelous carpet of a beach. From the left to the right corner just pure unbroken sand. Now, the right hand corner has some rocks and small boulders strewn about and there are some coral shelfs present in the shallows down the beach iteself. Otherwise its about the same as I can remember.
Well that baby that I used to transport on my back came with us this year. She is now 27. Her boyfriend, who had never been to SBH much less the Caribbean made almost a daily go of taking a hike to Columbier. They loved the walk and even they remarked that in a few areas you do need to treat it with some repect. So, I guess the moral of the story is that despite ones age, within reason, its worth a little sweat and time to get to one of the most spectacular beaches in the Caribbean. Just respect the trail and others that you meet along the way. Next year we will give the high path a shot and appreciate everyones comments.
Take care all.