2026 trip report

Jim A

Senior Insider
Short and sweet descriptions incoming

day 1: arrived on Tradewind via SJU on Thursday the 29th. Had to leave from JFK because apparently no direct flight from our local airport to SJU this year on Thursday mornings. So up at 4:30am for a 5am car service and at the best villa on the island, Les Basses, at around 4pm. We must be getting older because we were a little wiped out from the travel day. Car as always, a mini from Odile at Gumbs, was waiting for us when we arrived. Spent some time with our wonderful host/friend Rosita who gave us the highlights of the island updates for the new year and a little from last year too since we had taken the year off.

A quick stop at the Monoprix behind JoJo Burger for some necessities and a walk across the street for a baguette and night one dinner was as casual as it gets after converting our surprise charcuterie waiting for us in the fridge into sandwiches on the baguette. Then out for a quick welcome drink at the Remy bar at Eden Rock and back home for a little vanilla rhum and falling asleep during the first 10 minutes of the Netflix show we attempted.
 
some comments about the Island news.

power issues/outages/rolling blackouts - into our 3rd day on the island and have seen no sign of any issues. Apparently the generators brought in and placed around the island are helping and staying in a villa with solar and battery backups makes it a non issue when at “home”. IMO do not let this deter you from coming. the schedule is published in advance but I’m not sure if they are adhering to it better or not now. I guess we will see if the restos have all settled in to the schedule, but again, in our very very short time here so far we wouldn't even know there was an issue if we didn’t read about it.

detour to Flammands/Colombier - the detour through Corossol is still in effect. we skipped our usual first night dinner at Les Bananiers because we hadn’t yet seen the detour and weren’t sure where we could and couldn’t go and being tired, just didn’t have the energy to deal with it. I did drive it the next evening and it isn’t bad. Pass Nyama and go up the hill and then right turn to Flammands and left turn to Colombier at the top. Apparently during the day and peak hours it’s not so much fun. The way “back” is open so you only need to use the detour on the way out.

beaches - the surf is high on the north side at least due to recent storms, so the beaches “shrunk”. no one was sitting on the main side of St Jean other than all the way down by the airport as there is nowhere to sit due to the high surf unless you Rented chairs like we did (Pearl Beach). You can’t even walk past Nao without being in water up to your knees. But the beach is as beautiful as always and everyone moved their towels to the Pelican Beach side by Nikki which was pretty crowded with the normal crowd and also those who would have otherwise been on the other side.
 
All settled in at Villa. Very easy and efficient travel day. United Airline and Winair were stellar and timely. At SXM we were first in line at the transfer with boarding pass security. No immigration or customs with carry on and transfer line
 
Day 2, Saturday. Rented chairs at Pearl Beach. Usually our first full day. The peaceful waters of St Jean and relaxing while watching the planes fly in/out over the beach and enjoying the calm waters brings our mindset to where it needs to be.

Walked over to Nao for lunch. So underrated IMO. Just a great spot to sit with toes in sand. I always walk over earlier in the day and ask for the table in the corner by the stairs on the railing and they always reserve it for us. We love their menu and the setting is perfect. As always we started with some sushi and also ordered a ceviche and i also had the Mahi Mahi which was great as well. We splurged on a bottle of wine from my favorite wine maker, but hey, it just made the lunch that much better.


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Friday night dinner out was at La Licorne. First time there. The newish (I think?) chef/owner Romain and staff (well one staff person!) were awesome - friendly, helpful and gracious. Reasonably priced and flat out inexpensive for St Barth. Everything was fantastic. We had the tuna rillettes as a starter (it was much more filling than we expected) and both opted for the local fish special paired with a bottle of Sancerre. Just fantastic and an absolutely must try as an alternative to the new internationally owned and themed new restos that seem to be everywhere now. Definitely old St Barth charm and the food and service were again, fantastic. Only open for dinner on Friday and Saturday I think, but lunch daily so keep that in mind. This might be our future first night stop always if the nights line up as it is practically walkable for us and was such a pleasant surprise. I wish them the best. Give it a try.

the menu is on the chalk board as are the wines. Very casual and comfortable feel. No pics taken but if you focus really hard I’ll send them to you telepathically :)
 
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Oh, how inspiring! The photos are wonderful and hoping your trip goes without electrical hassles. Obviously I missed the post where there are outages; is it temporary or a new 'feature' of life on SBH? So sorry to hear about the beaches but it seems that it is a problem literally everywhere there is an ocean..SoCal is getting washed away. But there are lots of beaches on SBH! Thank you for your report and looking forward to more🙏
 
Oh, how inspiring! The photos are wonderful and hoping your trip goes without electrical hassles. Obviously I missed the post where there are outages; is it temporary or a new 'feature' of life on SBH? So sorry to hear about the beaches but it seems that it is a problem literally everywhere there is an ocean..SoCal is getting washed away. But there are lots of beaches on SBH! Thank you for your report and looking forward to more🙏
Apparently power outages were an issue the week before while they wrapped their head around how to handle the issues at the power plant and it looks like they did a good job to my untrained eyes. I’m sure some on the island then can give a better analysis of it but like I said I’ve yet to see any issue at all.

On St Jean it’s as great as always. The waves came up pretty high but I probably misrepresented it by using the term “surf”. The water itself was as lovely and calm as always. A couple of years ago while we were here at the same time of the year, Nao built a temporary platform for their sun beds to elevate them as it was even higher, so not all that uncommon I guess and the guys at Pearl Beach said it was only the last few days.
 
Saturday was lunch at Ti Corail which was as awesome as always, IMO one of the best deals and experiences on the island. Mellow, relaxing and fantastic food. We had the rillettes and the wahoo tartar and then split a lobster roll and a piece of their incredible cheesecake.

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Dinner Saturday night was at L’Esprit. the “Summer menu” there still surprises at how low it is priced for the quality of the food and it’s not just the taste but the presentation, the options, the creativity and the wonderful service. I also love how many options (and good options) they have for wines by the glass. This works out great for me as I usually have both a glass of white and red based on what I order and as always ask Cristophe for his recommendation as to what i should opt for. The Bordeaux he suggested to pair with the duck was perfect.

I had the tuna tartare for my starter which came two ways - A traditional tartare and then also a couple of pieces of smoked tuna on the side. Having either of the two options would have sufficed but offering both together was just that much better. I had the duck for my main (hence the red wine). GM had the scallops and the tuna. the included desserts we opted for were also wonderful. Always consistently great.
 
Hi Jim,

I so appreciate your posts and the lovely photos! We arrive on November 20 and would love to try Ti Corail for lunch. Do you have any suggestions for a parking strategy?

Thanks so much!
 
Hi Jim,

I so appreciate your posts and the lovely photos! We arrive on November 20 and would love to try Ti Corail for lunch. Do you have any suggestions for a parking strategy?

Thanks so much!
when we were there it was worse than usual, which isn’t good. Will be interesting once the new place opens and all construction is over if it will be better. I’m not sure if that small lot on the right will be allowed for Ti Corail. We usually park up top if nothing on the hill (there was no parking on the hill now) on the street and just walk down, but didn’t look there this time because we left the car at Le Barthelemy because we booked their spa day for the next day and they let us leave the car with the valet. A lot of cars seemed to be crammed in right inside the little Ti Corail area but again since we made the right to le Barthelemy and then walked down the beach we really didn’t get a good look.
 
Sunday we did a spa day at Le Barthelemy. First time doing so there for us. What a great experience. Just a high class, serene spa and property. Massages were amazing but the entire service experience was incredible. If anyone is interested I think it was 240euros per person. With that you get a 1 hour massage, use of the wellness area (jacuzzi, plunge pools, sauna, steam room) before and after your treatment. You also get chairs at the pool or beach from I think 10am to 6pm (we opted for the beach) a welcome drink and a two course lunch.

Such an amazing day. we upgraded to a 90 minute massage for a fee and with lunch there are a bunch of included options and a few that can be added for a fee. I had a shrimp starter and upgraded to an absolutely incredible sole dish for my main. GM had a fist arancini like starter and the lobster tacos. Everything was amazing. So far we have just done so well with our meals. Everything has been Even better than usual and you all know how good that is.

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all of that lobster!!!

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