When I was turning 40 in 2004, I was looking for somewhere warm to go for a January birthday, and a work friend suggested St Barths, "Its like Paris with palm trees!" she exclaimed. Sold, though I had no idea what we were getting into. We had to fly to PHL and then SJU then SXM and then SBH, it was a long travel to get to SBH then. We rented a sort of down-on-its-luck villa at the tip of Colombier with unbelievable 300 degree views. The property was divided and glammed up after that. We went to beaches, walked around Gustavia which was not nearly as fancy with LVMH stores as it is now. We ate at Wall House, Sapotiller, Esprit de Saline (what it used to be before better current iteration), Maya's, the way old Francois Plantation, and le Repaire (the only place still there). We were a group of four and not making a lot of money and it was totally possible to spend a week on SBH - though it was still expensive by our wallets. The roads were awful and small and we drove around in a ratty, rusted Jimny with a broken roof and thought it was the most fabulous thing ever. Can you imagine a rental car like that now? LOL. There were lots of villas in all price points then, and it made it easier for people without endless money to visit, and the villas were colorful and boho chic - there was not endless beige with pops of gray or a single yellow throw pillow. It's an overused word, but there was a bohemian flavor to the island, and we fell in love. We have come back every year since then, even after the horrible hurricane, even during covid. We haven't missed a year, although one year we couldn't come in the winter so went to Turks and Caicos (Covid times) and it was fine, but not the same at all. It was also a lot more gay then - it was one of the only places in the Caribbean that you didn't/don't have to worry about your personal safety. Saline used to be a mini gay beach on the right, that's all basically gone now, but still we love it and feel at home on SBH. The first years we came, people would scoff at a chain resturant (Nikki Beach being the only one then), funny how that's changed. I remember splurging on a pair of Prada flipflops from Human Steps (when it had men's stuff) and felt so fancy. LOL. There were all kinds of local shops in Gustavia, Pasha was out on a road near Pointe Milou, the Garconnerie for fab men's shirts, Jose Felix was a local designer. It was a place we would shop - not so much anymore. Everything is for people with more income than I have, Bulgari isn't in my budget. LOL. I remember the old signs around the island and Cartier had a signpost at every intersection with an arrow pointing you roughly in the direction of Gustavia, we always found that funny. Now, the number of villas at our price point is reduced to just a few, but we are happy with our secret spot in Marigot that no one seems to like and have been staying there nearly 10 years. Its plain and too simple by modern standards, I suppose, but it has color and separate buildings old style, and a few steps to the beach and it's charming and divine. We spend a lot of time just floating in Marigot Bay. We don't go to many of the big name places anymore, and the last few years we've discovered the solitude of Pt Cul de Sac beach. Very few go there and there is just wide open space without tons of houses and no loud bars. (St Jean beach is absolutely ruined these days, IMO. I dislike it there and only go in protest.) There were no flashing lights in restos, no need to make every dinner a club with flares, no live music in every dinner (I hate that, I know I'm in the minority but I don't want a floor show, I want a good meal). It was quieter and simpler and more friendly. That being said, I can't imagine going anywhere else, tho I dislike the mentality that "old SBH is there, you just have to look for it" - if people have to hunt for it, it's not "there." Luckily, we have been going so long, we know where the old SBH is, and embrace it. We are returning in February for a month (our budget has changed, LOL), and I can't wait. Thanks for giving me a walk thru old times, we are lucky to be able to come.