Amery
SBH Insider
Just back from a 10 day visit. Missed Les Voiles, really hope it returns next year.
Weather was generally clear, one very rainy morning, definitely much hotter than I recall for April.
We were up high so it was generally breezy though starting Monday of this week the Sahara sand/dust arrived in full force. Extremely hazy. Lasted 3 days, by yesterday (Thursday) morning it was clearer just in time for departure. Transited back through sxm via Winair (the only choice) which I bemoaned back when making plans but must say it was very easy. We were flying United so checked our bags all the way through to EWR and went through sxm transit security. A pleasant surprise.
Restaurants visited:
NAO (lunch) very pleasant and uncrowded, early seating. Beautiful view, nice service. Did not order extensively, only the beef carpaccio which was very good, on past visits have enjoyed many items especially the iced cucumber, tomato carpaccio, umeboshi beets, truffle spinach salad, dashi eggplant, sushi rolls, etc. Pretty cocktails as well—I can only vouch for the Hibiscus Paloma and Osaka Sour. Sadly, it was the only restaurant where a server asked for tip. Interesting as I was dining with a local, though he was only speaking english.
Nyama (dinner) extremely enjoyable: the food, company and visit with owners and staff. Love the casual friendly atmosphere and excellent food. Happy to support local owners, especially such talented and genuinely nice ones! A very special place. We really love it.
Le Sereno/Al Mare (Sunday lunch) Beautiful view, food delicious and on point—who can resist their Vitello tonnato? Staff efficient and friendly, the company excellent.
La Cabane/Cheval Blanc (lunch) I keep wanting to love this place, I really do, and know many enjoy it. For me it might be memories of what used to be? I miss the original restaurant next door that now only serves brunch and dinner. Or maybe it’s the proliferation of new yorkers? (I say this as one from the nyc area) Every time I’ve been there it’s felt like a loud nyc restaurant. We had a bit of a wrench in that our original reservation was for 3 people though a friend couldn’t make it as of that morning. I told our concierge and thought he amended the reservation from 3 to 2. When we arrived and said we were only 2 the hostess refused to seat us at the front table that had been reserved for us because “it is set for 3” so clearly had not received the message. (Of note: I have sat at that same table with only 2 people.) I refuse to question such or dispute--I think it was my years of magazine work, where we were taught to never draw attention-- so acquiesced and sat up top to avoid a very loud table next to where the hostess then tried to seat us. Through our entire lunch no one sat at our original “table for 3” until a couple came and were seated there as 2! I recognize this is not a deal breaker for most but it was an awkward handling of what should have been straightforward and flexible hospitality. On a positive note: the service was lovely, their breads (grain and pumpernickel) some of the best of the trip, and the food perfectly fine. The icing on the cake was a table set up on the way out (I think b/c it was Earth Day?) selling coral restoration t-shirts manned by friendly and very thankful locals. T-shirt purchased and smiles all around. Overall, the hotel is very beautiful, though from now on we will only visit the white bar next door for drinks and sit with memories of lunches gone by ; )
Papillon Ivre (dinner) Always enjoy our visits—a few glasses of wine and small plates. We tried a couple of whites, a couple of reds, raclette, salade lyonnaise, sea urchin and an excellent beef carpaccio. And of course the french butter!
Ocean Club (birthday dinner) Due to the sands it was not a memorable sunset but no matter with such a beautiful room and view. As the lights come on the view gets even better. Enjoyed very gracious service, cocktails and wine by the glass. One 3 course tasting menu: tree of life, bavette and “caviar” dessert— all delicious, I had a very interesting and excellent take on beef tartare followed by perfectly cooked mahi. Conveniently the only parking spot we found was right by Baz so we walked the harbor and couldn’t resist a night cap by the boats. It was very nice to see the restaurant busy.
Last but not least: lunch at Ti Corail, always a treat. We sat by Yann at the counter and watched him cook. We shared artichoke tapenade and eggplant puree to start, then truffle croque monsieur and a delicious lentil salad. I asked re: June closing as recall the past 2 years they stayed open w/ a limited menu. This year they will fully close from mid to late June. I am not certain of the dates. I think he said closing June 17(?) and not certain of a reopen date.
Also of note, on our way to M’Bolo for the best rum (also extremely nice local owners) we finally stopped into the Joel Robuchon “to go” pastry shop to buy bread for lunch. Wow, I felt like a child with my nose pressed against a candy shop window! Various beauties under domes: supersized cloud-like meringues, the biggest madeleines I’ve ever seen and stunning pretty-as-a-picture pastries behind the counter. I had to be led out by the hand after purchasing an excellent grain baguette.
All in all a beautiful trip. Traffic fine despite various road work. Parking in Gustavia definitely a challenge but we managed. One day we even tried the hospital lot and it was full! Sargassum overall was not a problem, Gouverneur fine the few mornings there, Saline one could tell had suffered more, lots of tire tracks and dried sargassum in the sand. As we know, beaches vary day to day. Colombier was very clear though there is a new locked gate blocking off the access road above beach—no more walking down the road and taking a sandy path down. The only access is the stone staircase at north end of the beach.
One last note of mild dismay: I continue to be amazed at how little concern some visitors (not locals) have for others on the beach. I can not fathom parking a chair right in front of someone who has already set themselves up or blasting music from a boat while others are enjoying a peaceful day, but sadly it continues to happen. Consequently, more and more, we skip prime time and go to the beach early in the morning. None of this will prevent us from returning (obviously) but as many of us know the island continues to change. Some for the better, some sadly not; we forge on and adapt ; )
Weather was generally clear, one very rainy morning, definitely much hotter than I recall for April.
We were up high so it was generally breezy though starting Monday of this week the Sahara sand/dust arrived in full force. Extremely hazy. Lasted 3 days, by yesterday (Thursday) morning it was clearer just in time for departure. Transited back through sxm via Winair (the only choice) which I bemoaned back when making plans but must say it was very easy. We were flying United so checked our bags all the way through to EWR and went through sxm transit security. A pleasant surprise.
Restaurants visited:
NAO (lunch) very pleasant and uncrowded, early seating. Beautiful view, nice service. Did not order extensively, only the beef carpaccio which was very good, on past visits have enjoyed many items especially the iced cucumber, tomato carpaccio, umeboshi beets, truffle spinach salad, dashi eggplant, sushi rolls, etc. Pretty cocktails as well—I can only vouch for the Hibiscus Paloma and Osaka Sour. Sadly, it was the only restaurant where a server asked for tip. Interesting as I was dining with a local, though he was only speaking english.
Nyama (dinner) extremely enjoyable: the food, company and visit with owners and staff. Love the casual friendly atmosphere and excellent food. Happy to support local owners, especially such talented and genuinely nice ones! A very special place. We really love it.
Le Sereno/Al Mare (Sunday lunch) Beautiful view, food delicious and on point—who can resist their Vitello tonnato? Staff efficient and friendly, the company excellent.
La Cabane/Cheval Blanc (lunch) I keep wanting to love this place, I really do, and know many enjoy it. For me it might be memories of what used to be? I miss the original restaurant next door that now only serves brunch and dinner. Or maybe it’s the proliferation of new yorkers? (I say this as one from the nyc area) Every time I’ve been there it’s felt like a loud nyc restaurant. We had a bit of a wrench in that our original reservation was for 3 people though a friend couldn’t make it as of that morning. I told our concierge and thought he amended the reservation from 3 to 2. When we arrived and said we were only 2 the hostess refused to seat us at the front table that had been reserved for us because “it is set for 3” so clearly had not received the message. (Of note: I have sat at that same table with only 2 people.) I refuse to question such or dispute--I think it was my years of magazine work, where we were taught to never draw attention-- so acquiesced and sat up top to avoid a very loud table next to where the hostess then tried to seat us. Through our entire lunch no one sat at our original “table for 3” until a couple came and were seated there as 2! I recognize this is not a deal breaker for most but it was an awkward handling of what should have been straightforward and flexible hospitality. On a positive note: the service was lovely, their breads (grain and pumpernickel) some of the best of the trip, and the food perfectly fine. The icing on the cake was a table set up on the way out (I think b/c it was Earth Day?) selling coral restoration t-shirts manned by friendly and very thankful locals. T-shirt purchased and smiles all around. Overall, the hotel is very beautiful, though from now on we will only visit the white bar next door for drinks and sit with memories of lunches gone by ; )
Papillon Ivre (dinner) Always enjoy our visits—a few glasses of wine and small plates. We tried a couple of whites, a couple of reds, raclette, salade lyonnaise, sea urchin and an excellent beef carpaccio. And of course the french butter!
Ocean Club (birthday dinner) Due to the sands it was not a memorable sunset but no matter with such a beautiful room and view. As the lights come on the view gets even better. Enjoyed very gracious service, cocktails and wine by the glass. One 3 course tasting menu: tree of life, bavette and “caviar” dessert— all delicious, I had a very interesting and excellent take on beef tartare followed by perfectly cooked mahi. Conveniently the only parking spot we found was right by Baz so we walked the harbor and couldn’t resist a night cap by the boats. It was very nice to see the restaurant busy.
Last but not least: lunch at Ti Corail, always a treat. We sat by Yann at the counter and watched him cook. We shared artichoke tapenade and eggplant puree to start, then truffle croque monsieur and a delicious lentil salad. I asked re: June closing as recall the past 2 years they stayed open w/ a limited menu. This year they will fully close from mid to late June. I am not certain of the dates. I think he said closing June 17(?) and not certain of a reopen date.
Also of note, on our way to M’Bolo for the best rum (also extremely nice local owners) we finally stopped into the Joel Robuchon “to go” pastry shop to buy bread for lunch. Wow, I felt like a child with my nose pressed against a candy shop window! Various beauties under domes: supersized cloud-like meringues, the biggest madeleines I’ve ever seen and stunning pretty-as-a-picture pastries behind the counter. I had to be led out by the hand after purchasing an excellent grain baguette.
All in all a beautiful trip. Traffic fine despite various road work. Parking in Gustavia definitely a challenge but we managed. One day we even tried the hospital lot and it was full! Sargassum overall was not a problem, Gouverneur fine the few mornings there, Saline one could tell had suffered more, lots of tire tracks and dried sargassum in the sand. As we know, beaches vary day to day. Colombier was very clear though there is a new locked gate blocking off the access road above beach—no more walking down the road and taking a sandy path down. The only access is the stone staircase at north end of the beach.
One last note of mild dismay: I continue to be amazed at how little concern some visitors (not locals) have for others on the beach. I can not fathom parking a chair right in front of someone who has already set themselves up or blasting music from a boat while others are enjoying a peaceful day, but sadly it continues to happen. Consequently, more and more, we skip prime time and go to the beach early in the morning. None of this will prevent us from returning (obviously) but as many of us know the island continues to change. Some for the better, some sadly not; we forge on and adapt ; )
