A Too-Long Trip Report for a Too-Short Trip

Risa

SBH Insider
My long awaited trip to St Barth – booked last MAY!

Travel day was rough. I couldn’t sleep at all – not even an extended blink, so I finally just got up. Although I was flying with two friends, they said they were taking the subway to JFK, so I rose to that challenge and did so also. The subway stop is right at my apartment, and that particular stop is only one flight of stairs, so I made the schlep with my 46lb suitcase and took the scenic J train to Jamaica and switched for the air train. I was so early – I don’t think my friends arrived for another hour. Jet Blue changed the flight times from when I booked, which made our transfer to Winair at SXM almost impossible. And in fact, it was. It took some doing, by the woman at the Winair counter finally rebooked 2 of us on a later flight (one made it – he only had carry-on). We were two hours “behind” schedule, but all was fine once our plane took off. I just love that flight! Lots of air traffic at SBH, necessitating our beautiful and talented pilot to make a wide swing out from Gustavia and circle back in, a flight path I hadn’t experience before. Wheels down was as smooth as gliding on ice. Magnifique!

We had a tad of trouble finding the villa in Devet, google maps was off a bit. I should have learned in Italy – never follow google maps. But our lovely and helpful villa owner came and found us and escorted us to our short term home. And our villa was stunning! The photos didn’t do it justice. Each room was unique, private, and each offered something special, there was no best or worst room among the five rooms. So special.

After settling in a bit, I had to do a run back to the airport to pick up the last member of our group of six, and we did a stop at the Super U (we were only there for four full days, and I made 2 stops at Super U and two at L’Oasis, and others made several other stops. This group was addicted to grocery shopping!).

Dinner at Mapo was a delight. We ordered a bunch of tapas and shared. As our group has different tastes (some heavy meat eaters, some dislike fish, I don’t eat meat), sharing was a bit of a challenge in some places, but it all worked out perfectly on our first night out at Mapo. The tuna tacos were a big hit, but I particularly loved the fennel scented wahoo ceviche. That was the memorable dish of the night for me, although I was impressed by the flakiness of the shell and the freshness of the tuna in the tuna tacos, and the perfectly fried eggplant fritters. We all walked happy and fully satiated, and I believe it was our least expensive dinner (this group of 6 turned out to be big drinkers, which tends to run up the bill.) After a tough travel day for everyone, we happily tumbled into bed quickly.
 
Thursday morning, two of us made the early run to Choisy in Lorient – the cookie croissant was the surprise item (think chocolate chip cookie dough in a flaky arc), and the Nutella croissant is addictive, of course. Then, it turned out that two of my friends who recently got married had an appointment at a jeweler in Gustavia and I went along. I needed to replace the strings on some of my St Barth bracelets, and this was as good an opportunity as any…turns out to have been a wise decision, as that was the only time we went into Gustavia during the day. I picked up some beautiful coffee cups at Baja (to replace one that I broke), wandered around, met my friends, and spent some time at Maison Pelican. They have an extraordinary collection of mid century art and ceramics, I especially enjoyed the collection of Picasso’s drawings in preparation for Guernica. I could have spent more time in Gustavia, but we had lunch reservations at Ti Corail – off we go!

As most know, Ti Corail is a sublime casual toes-in-the-sand spot, a glorified food truck with epicurean tastes, served on paper plates. The heavens opened up just as we arrived, so we had to wait a bit for it to stop so they could dry off our table for six on the beach. Again, we ordered a lot of items and shared. I should have taken photos, but the food was alluring, and I wanted to stay in the moment, rather than play with my phone and arranging the presentation. The eggplant dip and the daurade tartare were among my favorites.

After lunch, two of us went to Saline – finally! My happiest place on earth. The first time hiking up is always a little challenging and I was gasping for breath by the time I reached the crest. It was a little windy on the beach and the waves were rocking. I got knocked down twice, but that’s about par for me. The water was perhaps a tad colder than other visits, but still gorgeous. I miss it already (although I seem to have brought home a lot of sand in my suitcase, and in my hair – water pressure at the villa was a dubious concept – the quid pro quo for being high in the hills.) After the beach, we did a quick run into St Jean, and I picked up a new t shirt at my favorite t shirt store – the Drugstore. Luisa and I hugged like the old friends we are. She always makes me smile! And I found a pair of tres chic, baggy-legged barrel jeans in a dark wash at the rock and roll store on the end of that strip, that I just love.

Dinner was at Le Tamarin. It’s a beautiful setting was a creative menu and lovely wine list. I shared the mahi-mahi exotique ceviche with one of my dinner companions, and we also shared the whole grilled fish special. The ceviche, as expected, tasted like St Barth on a plate – filled with tropical flavors and a delight on the tongue. The grilled fish was well prepared but not especially memorable. I spotted a building that looked like the wine cellar and asked the sommelier if I could visit it. He gladly took me and the other wine person in our group, and it was a real treat to see their collection. All of those bottles of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti were impressive, but also the Lynch Bages, Pomerols, and even some excellent Italian Sassacaia and others. Frederich, the sommelier even gave me a tip on a new wine bar in Manhattan that I haven’t been to yet! Unfortunately, the valet left my car keys in another vehicle and had to go to Gustavia to pick them up while we waited, but otherwise, it was a lovely evening.
 
Friday morning was also windy and since we were going out for lunch, I elected not to do a quick trip to Saline. Instead, I breakfasted leisurely at our stunning villa, and practiced yoga on my personal deck. There is something that awakens in me when I can see that view coming out of downward dog!

Lunch at Nikki Beach was – as always – a lot of fun. We had the perfect table in the corner on the beach, and I always find the food so much better than I would expect at a place like this. Of course, they forgot to serve two items that nevertheless appeared on the bill, and that was rectified. (Sadly, one of them was the French fries, which I probably didn’t need anyhow, but I think Nikki’s French fries are the best on the island.). I managed to get my toes in the sand for a little bit, which of course is critical! After lunch, we did a bit of shopping – I finally made it to my two favorite bathing suit shops, Soraya and Pain e Sucre, across from Nikki Beach, and replenished my bathing suit wardrobe. I’m good now for the season!

By this time, I was ready for some relaxation at the villa. After all, I needed to rest up before dinner!

This evening, dinner was at Le Papillion Ivre - a genius concept for a “wine bar” with delicious food on the island. Julie and her team are excellent at pouring the best wines for one’s tastes, and opening up bottles that you wouldn’t otherwise have the ability to sample. Interestingly, a 1998 St Emillion was better than the 1990. I wish I took more photos of the wine bottles – that was my failure. As for the food, I enjoyed everything I had, but this wasn’t my best meal, as we were sharing everything, and my group landed on many dishes that I don’t eat. I suppose I should have been more forceful, but one person did most of the ordering and I kind of missed out a bit. Oh well. It was still a treat overall, and I didn’t go home hungry.
 
By Saturday, we were a bit “fooded out,” and as I suspected that would be, I hadn’t made lunch reservations for us. It was particularly windy that day and heading to Saline didn’t make a lot of sense. Instead, I got another yoga practice in at the pool. I had “met” a lovely woman on Facebook who I had been looking forward to meeting on the island, and she welcomed me to her home and art studio. Two others of our group joined me and we spent an interesting hour with her, listening to her stories about her art journey and life on the island – and purchased some local art to keep us happy at home. She invited us to park at her home to go to the beach at Lorient, and with the wind that day, that ended up being the perfect plan. We came back an hour later after lunch at home (our refrigerator was over stocked – the three men had grocery shopping obsessions!) and enjoyed several peaceful hours on the lovely sands of Lorient.

Saturday evening, a few of us went to Eden Rock for cocktails at Remy’s Club. What a treat! The “welcome cocktail” of gin infused with black tea was deliciously refreshing and visually stunning, in a graceful coupe. My limoncello cocktail was hard to drink slowly – but I wanted to savor it. Somehow they manage to make the area feel intimate, almost like a speakeasy on the beach.

After that, we headed into Gustavia to Bonito. The traffic in Gustavia was rough – I suspect that it was due to the music festival, but getting through town took far longer than I anticipated. Fortunately, we had left ER early, hoping to check out the new Barry, but that plan had to be scrapped.

I always enjoy Bonito, it’s loud and frenetic and pricey, but the food is delicious and the views are fabulous. I had a gravlax appetizer (which I was happy to have, as I missed the gravlax dish on the Le Pap menu), and mahi mahi – I slurped up every last bit of it. And the sommelier actually recommended a wine less expensive than the requested one, which was unavailable. Still a big ticket dinner, but they always deliver. Some of the people in our group wanted to go out afterwards, and we moved on to Bagatelle. It was the usual scene with costumed people with whistles and noise makers celebrating each time a bottle of Dom was ordered, and lots of revelry and well, drunk people. It was fun for about an hour, but then I was done. Since I was driving, my group had to leave with me – they seemed ok with it.
 
On Sunday, I went back to Saline with one other person. Although it was windy and the water a big rough, I managed to get past the wave line for a bit and probably went out too far – I worked hard to get back to dry land! Hopefully, I burned a few calories doing so. I’m always so so sad leaving Saline the last time. Question for regulars – has anyone noticed that the path is less rocky over time? Has more sand been brought in covering the rocks? I think I may have teared up leaving, but was excited for our last lunch.

Le Toiny is an oasis of elegance even on an island as exclusive and sophisticated as St Barth. And the tram ride down is candy for the eyes. I love laying my sandals on the shelf and squeezing the sand between my toes.

Max the DJ at Le Toiny is also an old friend, from a decade ago (at least) when he was at Nikki. I’ve even met up with him in Ibiza. It was so nice to see him and his wife Carmel again.

And the food!! Again, with a location so spectacular, the food could be treated as a side show, but instead, it is outstanding. The tomato watermelon gazpacho was light and flavorful, the burrata salad with pistachio pesto was lick-your-plate delicious, and my Dorade Royale with olives and tomatoes was perfectly prepared. We ate WELL. We used the swing for an impromptu photo shoot and loved every minute. On the way home, we did a quick stop in St Jean as some wanted a few more trinkets as gifts. Then spent the rest of the afternoon (what was left of it) packing and relaxing.

Dinner was comprised of the various cheeses, a pizza, and other goodies filling up our refrigerator. We didn’t lack for food, wine, and alcohol.
 
Our last morning was marred by an unexpected shut off of the water in the area. I arose early to do a last bakery run to bring croissants back to NYC and I ran across the street to check out the new shopping center – just a run through. Since I was out and back early, I was lucky enough to have showered before the water shut down. I filled up with gas at the station in Lorient – beware, there is an absurd charge on my credit card – I am waiting to see if it’s a “hold” or fraud, status pending. But annoying to see. The airport was a zoo, all of the flights were held up, so there were long lines of people, and then when you got to the front, they didn’t let you check in if you weren’t on the next flight, and sent you to wait again (had I known, I would have crossed the street for more shopping or something.) But all of that was ok, because our Jet Blue flight was also delayed several hours. Travel to and from the island was most challenging, this trip. Especially since it was such a brief trip (note to self: Wednesday to Monday is TOO SHORT!)

I brought home enough croissants to hold on to my St Barth high, but I gained six pounds on this very short trip. Other than the croissants, I need to show some self discipline this week to reverse that!

My love for the island and the wonderful people (including my villa owner) remains strong. I was happy to catch up with old friends, and I missed one, sadly. Our group of 6 mostly got along well, some irritations, some “moods,” as someone said: “And not a single person murdered in their sleep, drowned in the pool or kicked out of the car and told to walk home!!! (But it was close.)” In truth, we had a lovely time together, lots of smiles – which is tough for 6 individuals all used to running on their own schedules! In such a short trip, we had no “misses” on the restaurants, although next time, I would skip Tamarin for another option (I’m sorry I didn’t get to L’Esprit, for one!). I walked through Le Coloniale, it looked nice, but I was still saddened by the change. Mapo is open all day, I bet it’s great for lunch too. Too many restaurants, too little time! And of course, I only got to Saline and Lorient, but I’m ok with that too.

I will frame my new artwork and hang it with the “Saline” sign from a previous trip. It’s good juju, until I can return to my beautiful little island. I already can’t wait!
 
Most likely it is a hold from the gas station. I noticed that lately as soon as one plugs their credit card into the pump, gas station system puts a hold in the amount that is equal or more than max amount of the gas which one can get from the pump. It is usually some absurdly high amount. I was spooked by it, but it later disappeared.

I guess this way the station protects itself from fraudsters as well as the people with maxed out cards. If the hold fails, they won't allow one to.pump out the gas.
 
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Most likely it is hold from the gas station. I noticed that lately as soon one plugs their credit card into the pump, its system puts a hold in that amount that is equal or more than max amount of the gas which one can get from the pump. It is usually some absurdly high amount. I was spooked by it, but it later disappeared.
I hope so! I so don't want to have to go through the whole reporting process....
 
Yes, there is usually a hold charge of @80-100 euro that disappears and then the lesser charge (for gas pumped) goes through.
 
Enjoyed reading your report Risa.

We don’t have plans for this year yet but after reading your report I’m trying to figure out when I can fit in a trip.
 
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