April 2024 Sort of Trip Report - It Won’t Last, Maybe a Few Days

[KevinS]

Day 0

Our travel to SBH has changed in recent years. Previously, we lived near a major Northeast city, and could easily make the trip from home to SBH in a single day. Now we live near a regional Mid-Atlantic airport, and an extra connection sometimes requires an overnight stop along the way. The overnight is sometimes required by airline schedules, and is sometimes required by choice - I don’t care to deal with the St Maarten airport until they get their act together, which, by the time that they finally finish, will be at least seven years after Hurricane Irma.

Instead, we fly to Puerto Rico and use Tradewind between SJU and SBH. Our current trip was Home-ATL-SJU on DL. DL’s F meals have definitely improved, and our choice on the ATL-SJU leg (Fox Bros BBQ Short Ribs) was enough to later just have appetizers for dinner.

We stayed in a beachfront hotel in Isla Verde, which is close to the airport. What makes that hotel work for is that it is beachfront, had a beachfront bar, and the casino is halfway between the beach bar and the elevator. We spend all of 5 minutes in the casino. Get in, win quick or lose quick, and get out. A quick stop at the lobby bar for a nightcap and a dinner of a shared Coconut Shrimp app (Thank you Fox Bros Short Ribs) and we’re done for the day.



The next morning it’s a 10-minute cab ride to the airport and the Tradewind counter, and we’re on to Day 1.

 

[cec1]

Day 0

Our travel to SBH has changed in recent years. Previously, we lived near a major Northeast city, and could easily make the trip from home to SBH in a single day. Now we live near a regional Mid-Atlantic airport, and an extra connection sometimes requires an overnight stop along the way. The overnight is sometimes required by airline schedules, and is sometimes required by choice - I don’t care to deal with the St Maarten airport until they get their act together, which, by the time that they finally finish, will be at least seven years after Hurricane Irma.

Instead, we fly to Puerto Rico and use Tradewind between SJU and SBH. Our current trip was Home-ATL-SJU on DL. DL’s F meals have definitely improved, and our choice on the ATL-SJU leg (Fox Bros BBQ Short Ribs) was enough to later just have appetizers for dinner.

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We stayed in a beachfront hotel in Isla Verde, which is close to the airport. What makes that hotel work for is that it is beachfront, had a beachfront bar, and the casino is halfway between the beach bar and the elevator. We spend all of 5 minutes in the casino. Get in, win quick or lose quick, and get out. A quick stop at the lobby bar for a nightcap and a dinner of a shared Coconut Shrimp app (Thank you Fox Bros Short Ribs) and we’re done for the day.



The next morning it’s a 10-minute cab ride to the airport and the Tradewind counter, and we’re on to Day 1.

"Now we live near a regional Mid-Atlantic airport, and an extra connection sometimes requires an overnight stop along the way. The overnight is sometimes required by airline schedules, and is sometimes required by choice - I don’t care to deal with the St Maarten airport until they get their act together . . ."

BINGO! Same sentiments, Kevin. On our upcoming trip, we're going to -- for a change -- overnight in "Old San Juan," which offers an opportunity to experience Puerto Rican culture in its vibrant energy, history, and architecture. The historic center of San Juan, for example, has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site . . . offering Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture dating back to the early 1500s in a walking-friendly environment..

Getting back to Isla Verde, I understand that work to restore the old Ritz Carlton finally has commenced, with a late 2024 opening planned. We'll see, of course . . . but it would be great to have it on the scene again!

 

[davesmom]

Thank you for the info! We will probably try your route through SJU on our next trip, so knowing where to go overnight is very helpful . (All I remember about Puerto Rico years ago is getting bit up at the Fort by the noseeums, so bring your bug spray if you will be wandering around..)

 

[dadto6]

Anita and I did the same as Kevin our past trip last month. Only disappointment was getting up early to catch the 1st TW flight out but was nice going to bed early night before breaking up the travel day. Next time might take the 2nd flight on TW.

 

[cec1]

. . . recommend the second flight!

 

[Jim Kelly-Evans]

We loved our overnight stay in PR and our brief visit to Old San Juan last month enroute to SBH. We've already booked it again for next year.

 

[Jim Kelly-Evans]

Anita and I did the same as Kevin our past trip last month. Only disappointment was getting up early to catch the 1st TW flight out but was nice going to bed early night before breaking up the travel day. Next time might take the 2nd flight on TW.

Later flight, definitely!

San Juan

09:40 AM

St Barths

10:47 AM

 

[KevinS]

A Yellow-Crowned Night Heron, which we’ve seen here before, came for a drink out of Le Basin. I wish that I had been able to get a photo of it in flight, with that yellow crown sticking out behind the head,

 

[JEK]

Nice shot! I’ve seen the green cousin, but not the Yellow Crowned.

 

[amyb]

We know that bird since he was a juvenile. He is master of his domain in Lorient and he thrives on land crabs nearby.

 

[cec1]

We know that bird since he was a juvenile. He is master of his domain in Lorient and he thrives on land crabs nearby.

That’s funny! St. Barths truly is a small family!

 

[KevinS]

Day 1

We were able to sleep in late today, 07:30, . We didn’t bother with breakfast, even though our hotel has a very good breakfast buffet (their best meal offering ). We took a 10-minute taxi ride to the airport, followed by a 10-minute Tradewind check-in, and moved to the Tradewind lounge to raid their snack selection. Our flight was a full flight, as were two other flights, all scheduled for 09:55.

Our flight, the first of the three, was called 15 minutes earlier than we expected. A quick trip through Tradewind’s security checkpoint, an elevator ride, and a short bus ride put us at the plane. In 10-15 minutes we were on our way. The route split the difference between St Thomas and St Croix, and the next thing that I saw was a glimpse of Dog Island, NW of Anguilla. Passing south of St Maarten, our flight landed over the beach in St Barth, 20 minutes early.

A quick trip through immigration and baggage claim, and we were at the Gumbs counter as Odile was walking in from the parking lot. With no more of my beloved beater Daihatsu Terios in her fleet, she put us in a Suzuki Ignis. It’s quite nice, but given driving, parking, big trucks, and scooters, I would rather have a beater, .

We could have dropped our bags at the villa, but instead we headed into town for lunch. I was eager to check out the new Repaire, which is now on longtime local restaurateur Hervé’s watch. Upon reaching the municipal parking lot, the Complet/Full sign was flashing. There was an Eden Rock car waiting at the entrance gate, and I tucked in behind it. Apparently a ferry had recently arrived, as people were loading bags into cars. After a short 5-6 minute wait, the very first parking space opened up, and the Eden Rock car got a parking ticket from the gate and pulled into it. A minute later, another car backed out of the perfect parking space for us - the one next to the walkway to the sidewalk - and I grabbed it. I’ve already mentioned that 40! Parking spaces are blocked off until June for construction.

Crossing the street to the new Repaire St Barth, we entered through the back door by the kitchen. I was very pleased to see Chef Adam in the kitchen, as well as several of his longtime kitchen staff, and stopped for a brief chat before he got back to lunch prep. I was also pleased to see new owner Hervé sitting at the corner table, where he can see everything from the kitchen to the entire restaurant (except the air-conditioned side room, which no longer has a pool table.).

After fist bumps and cheek kisses with one of Hervé’s longtime waitstaff, we were seated at our favorite table, not the best in the house, but the one that we prefer. We were informed that at 11:20 we were too early for lunch (12:00), which we knew, but not too early for a bottle of water and deux Planteur.

My preferred seat allowed me to peruse the Special Board, which I have mentioned many times. It now had a single lunch special, La Classe Croûte. This was a €30 three-course lunch, including a coffee and a small bottle of water. (Yes, it’s a lot of € for a lunch special, but it’s also a lot of food.) Today, the app was a roasted Cherry Tomato tart with Feta, Pine Nuts, and a small salad. The main was Roasted Green Beans and Toulouse Sausage with a Parmesan Emulsion, and dessert was a Lime/Meringue Verrine. Sold! That and a Thon Croustillant (Tuna and a few veggies in a crispy rollup, a mayonnaise/tartar sauce on the side). Added to my Verrine dessert was the best Café Gourmand that we’ve seen in years

.

After lunch (and the obligatory Rhum Vanille) we headed off to the villa. We’ve stayed at this very popular villa for many years, and it’s an old friend. Une coupe, unpacking, and another coupe got us settled. Rosita, our beloved villa owner dropped by for a chat, and I handed off a few small items which we had brought down for her.



A few relaxing hours at the villa, and we went to our usualFirst Night dinner at Les Bananiers. Greeted by the lovely Valerie, we were seated at a corner table on the rail, with a gentle breeze. Dinner was uncomplicated. We ordered our usual Nems de Canard (duck spring rolls), pizza (thanks, Luigi), and Craquant aux Trois Chocolate for dessert (possibly the best chocolate dessert on the island). It was good to be back here.



Returning to the villa, we had une coupe on the terrace before calling it a night.





This may be the end of my trip report. Day 1 was Thursday, and it’s now Monday. I’m too relaxed to keep this up. It could be June before I finish writing about this trip, . I may drop a few small updates into this thread, but no more long posts.

 

[Amery]

I’m with you Kevin. On day 7 and will wait until home for report(s). I will say highlights thus far include a visit with Rosita, a local dinner party at an iconic villa, hugs and catch up with Tuti and Clement (and an excellent dinner), a lovely and very rainy church service yesterday morning after which the weather cleared for a beautiful lunch at Le Sereno with favorite friends

 

[marybeth]

Love your trip report title....I know exactly what you mean. Start off strong and then taper off as the island mode kicks in.

That café gourmand looks perfect!

 

[davesmom]

Thank you, Kevin, for your hard work; now time to relax and just “be”..of course with a nice Rosé all day in your hand! Many thanks for the update; next time, at Les Bananiers, I am eating dessert first! Bon voyage et bon appétit

 

[KevinS]

Thank you, Kevin, for your hard work; now time to relax and just “be”..of course with a nice Rosé all day in your hand! Many thanks for the update; next time, at Les Bananiers, I am eating dessert first! Bon voyage et bon appétit

 

[davesmom]