Days 6-7: Butterflies and wine

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SBH Insider
Sunday we slept in and then enjoyed some time by the pool. We hadn't really made a morning or afternoon of just lounging by the pool, and with the view I was really looking forward to that. It was very hot that morning and the breeze was relatively light so a lot of dips required. I think we killed off the Sancerre that morning. Reading with some light music on in the background (in this case, the Eagles) was very peaceful and relaxing.

We then put dry suits on and packed up for an afternoon of people-watching on St. Jean, but first a stop at Jojo for burgers and beers. The breeze down there was not too bad and we were relatively comfortable despite sweating a bit. We were seated next to a dad, 4 kids, and a couple nannies, and the dad's conversations with his children reminded us so much of our conversations with our kids: "Why are you asking that question? You already know why we need a table to eat on." "Let's bring the volume down about 4 notches, buddy." "There is a level of speaking between yelling and whispering." "No, you can't have this, this is a Mojito." We were quietly laughing because we've been in the same situation countless times, except with less children. Got a big kick out of it. The burgers were great and really hit the spot since we hadn't left to grab breakfast that morning.

Found parking around St. Jean in a lot relatively close to Pearl Beach and took our chairs/umbrella down past Nao and set up. It was windy and there were a ton of people (relatively speaking, of course) out and about on a Sunday afternoon. This is going to sound a bit ridiculous, but it after spending days at Gouverneur, Flamands, Colombier, etc, it was too many people! We did enjoy the different scenes of the day and just being on the "hoppin'" beach for a bit. Left around 430 or so and went back to the villa for another dip in the pool before dinner.

Which was at Le Papillon Ivre that night. Man, we loved this place. Quaint venue with most seating outside, though I didn't get a single mosquito bite I don't think. It was fun perusing the different bottles they had available. I have never seen a 1985 Chateauneuf-du-Pape anywhere else, let alone one priced at under 200e for the bottle! We elected to drink a few reds by the glass and were greeted by the wine manager, Julie, who described her crib when she was a baby as a wine barrel, I think jokingly? She was born and raised in Bordeaux. We really enjoyed talking to her throughout the evening and she put us on to some great wines. The food was excellent: we had the urchin dip with bread (phenomenal), eggplant with burrata (rich and delicious), croque monsieur (flavors too strong for me), beef carpaccio (very nice), and an off-menu pasta that was also rich and excellent. The portions are small, tapas-style, but we were very satisfied with those 5 plates (they recommend 2-3 per person generally). For dessert my wife had pears in chocolate sauce and I had the crème brulee. Before desserts I asked Julie for a final by the glass recommendation of whatever she wanted to serve us. She got a look in her eye and brought out and opened up a 2003 Chateau Vaugelas Corbieres Cuvee Prestige that was just wonderful. A lighter red with a sweet middle and smooth end - divine. Never have I had the privilege of tasting a wine aged for 20 years - first off I wouldn't really know where to start looking for one. It was a real treat. We loved this dinner, and I think had we had longer to stay we might've gone back.

We spent Monday morning shopping in Gustavia after a breakfast of sweet crepes and coffee at La Creperie. Got a few items for the kids and a shirt or two for ourselves but enjoyed walking around and looking at the shops and being "downtown" for a bit. We debated about lunch but ended up heading into Mi Brasa to give it a try. Lovely setting and venue. I had the wok of the day which was shrimp and it was outstanding, one of my better standalone meals on the island. Delicious flavors. My wife had the kebab sandwich which was okay. It was hot that day but there was still a breeze in the little courtyard which was a relief. Nice lunch there and I'm glad we stopped in after reading about it on the forum.

Back to the pool for the afternoon as we still had a bottle of rose left to tackle. I was a bit sunned out but enjoyed pulling the chaise under the covered patio and reading my book while listening to the dulcet tones of Jesse Cook on the outdoor speakers. I started Lonesome Dove on this trip and found it's been very difficult to put down. Lovely afternoon by the pool with a bit more breeze than previous.

We went in to pack up a bit and then got ready and headed down the hill to Le Sereno. We had heard this was breezy beachfront dining and that is certainly the case. It was quite windy, and after speaking to the waiter (to whom we told we weren't bothered by the wind, we were just curious), he said it was like that most nights. Started with a mahi tartare with gazpacho that was very nice and then I had the snapper catch of the day and my wife the pesto pasta. Both were very good. The setting on the beach is really nice, though I will caution I think the wind could be too much for some. I thoroughly enjoyed it as I love a good breeze and I didn't have to worry a lick about mosquitoes. We hit the sack that night very thankful for our week on the island and dreamed of our return.

Song(s) of the day(s):

 
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Sunrise our last morning
 
I have loved your reviews and musings, Lake. Great reading ALL of them and seeing the photos of views through your lens.

Safe travels. Until next time, keep taking good care of each other.

By the way, LONESOME DOVE is brilliant, beautifully written, and on my all time best ever top 10 reads! You will probably also like COMANCHE MOON and STREETS OF LAREDO as you get to look back on the lead characters' lives before the story you are now reding.

My brother had told m to read this book. 'Til this day I get chills if anyone says the words BLUE DUCK!
 
Another great report! Happy that you enjoyed Le Papillon Ivre so much . . . Julie is very sweet & knowledgeable about wine. Excellent photos . . . giving a clear picture of the fun times enjoyed by you & your wife. Funny story of “dad’s kids with his children!”
 
I have loved your reviews and musings, Lake. Great reading ALL of them and seeing the photos of views through your lens.

Safe travels. Until next time, keep taking good care of each other.

By the way, LONESOME DOVE is brilliant, beautifully written, and on my all time best ever top 10 reads! You will probably also like COMANCHE MOON and STREETS OF LAREDO as you get to look back on the lead characters' lives before the story you are now reding.

My brother had told m to read this book. 'Til this day I get chills if anyone says the words BLUE DUCK!
I strongly recommend Larry's pre-Lonesome Dove work, in particular Cadillac Jack and All My Friends Are Going To Be Strangers.
 
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