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For Sea Scallops, the Bare Minimum
JAN. 24, 2014
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Simple sea scallops persillade. Owen Franken for The New York Times
Sea scallops are one of winter’s divine treats, and one of the best places to enjoy them is Paris. In every fish market there, you see great piles of them on display, still in the shell, ready to be shucked to order.
To entice customers, a few are displayed already opened to reveal a glistening fat fresh scallop, with the bright orange coral attached. You can buy them preshucked, but why would you? Every fish shop has someone who can get the job done in a flash, so in just a few minutes you walk away with the very freshest specimens. Ask for a few shells — coquilles — and you’ll have nice set of little dishes to serve them in.
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Actually, the full name for scallops there is coquilles St.-Jacques. There’s a vivid story behind the name. When St. James (a.k.a. St. Jacques, or Santiago) went wandering on religious pilgrimages, he took with him the shell of a sea scallop — the cuplike bottom half. If he asked for food or drink to sustain him along the way, he would only accept the small amount that fit in the shell. The scallop shell has been the symbol for him ever since.
One classic old-school French method for cooking coquilles St.-Jacques is to bake them in the shell with a thick coating of béchamel sauce until bubbling and browned on top. Though it may look nice, to me it seems a shame to obscure the sweet fresh flavor of a just-shucked scallop.
I always prefer a less complicated rendition, whether seared a la plancha with a dab of pungent romesco sauce, or very lightly poached in a fragrant Asian broth. Or, to continue in a more Gallic vein, I may serve them grilled with a straightforward vinaigrette or, perhaps my favorite way, à la persillade, an easy flourish of chopped garlic and parsley.
The point is, whatever you do, keep the adornments minimal. Utter simplicity is what you’re after.
In Botticelli’s famous painting, the one that depicts Venus emerging from the sea on the half-shell, the shell in question is that of a sea scallop. And there she is, a voluptuous creature, naked and dewy.
That’s the way I think fresh scallops taste best, nearly bare but for that kiss of flavor.
Recipe: Simple Sea Scallops Persillade
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Shucking and trimming the sea scallops before browning them in the pan. Owen Franken for The New York Times
JAN. 24, 2014
Simple sea scallops persillade. Owen Franken for The New York Times
Sea scallops are one of winter’s divine treats, and one of the best places to enjoy them is Paris. In every fish market there, you see great piles of them on display, still in the shell, ready to be shucked to order.
To entice customers, a few are displayed already opened to reveal a glistening fat fresh scallop, with the bright orange coral attached. You can buy them preshucked, but why would you? Every fish shop has someone who can get the job done in a flash, so in just a few minutes you walk away with the very freshest specimens. Ask for a few shells — coquilles — and you’ll have nice set of little dishes to serve them in.
RELATED COVERAGE
Actually, the full name for scallops there is coquilles St.-Jacques. There’s a vivid story behind the name. When St. James (a.k.a. St. Jacques, or Santiago) went wandering on religious pilgrimages, he took with him the shell of a sea scallop — the cuplike bottom half. If he asked for food or drink to sustain him along the way, he would only accept the small amount that fit in the shell. The scallop shell has been the symbol for him ever since.
One classic old-school French method for cooking coquilles St.-Jacques is to bake them in the shell with a thick coating of béchamel sauce until bubbling and browned on top. Though it may look nice, to me it seems a shame to obscure the sweet fresh flavor of a just-shucked scallop.
I always prefer a less complicated rendition, whether seared a la plancha with a dab of pungent romesco sauce, or very lightly poached in a fragrant Asian broth. Or, to continue in a more Gallic vein, I may serve them grilled with a straightforward vinaigrette or, perhaps my favorite way, à la persillade, an easy flourish of chopped garlic and parsley.
The point is, whatever you do, keep the adornments minimal. Utter simplicity is what you’re after.
In Botticelli’s famous painting, the one that depicts Venus emerging from the sea on the half-shell, the shell in question is that of a sea scallop. And there she is, a voluptuous creature, naked and dewy.
That’s the way I think fresh scallops taste best, nearly bare but for that kiss of flavor.
Recipe: Simple Sea Scallops Persillade
Shucking and trimming the sea scallops before browning them in the pan. Owen Franken for The New York Times
