Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: Part 9 - November 2019 Trip Report

  1. #1
    lvbookworm is offline
    SBH Member Joined: Feb 2019 Las Vegas, NV Posts: 138

    Part 9 - November 2019 Trip Report

    Because this was our last day (and not wanting to waste one minute of it) we set our alarm for 7:30. We decided swimming and relaxing at St. Jean beach would be a perfect final-day activity. After a stop at Petite Columbe for breakfast and lunch takeout we went on a reconnaissance trip to check out a couple of spots for possible add-on nights for future vacations.

    First on our list was Le P’tit Morne. Even though it was right up the road from our villa we had yet to explore the area. We were hoping to see a sample room, but the manager politely declined our request due to the property being fully booked. She invited us to take a stroll around the grounds and we took our time admiring the gardens. When we finally reached the top section of rooms we were speechless at the beautiful view from the high vantage point. It was then that we realized how eerily quiet it was. The only thing we could hear was the whistling of the light breeze, and a few birds as they flew overhead. Wow. What a place!


    The next stop on our list was Auberge de la Petit Anse. We had the good fortune to meet the manager (owner?) Sugere, who gave us a tour of one of the cottages. The accommodations were a little rustic, but they were clean and had everything needed for a restful stay. The proximity of the decks to the crashing waves down below provided a mesmerizing view, and we could easily understand why the property has such a loyal clientele. We decided that either of these spots would be perfect for those times when we wanted to economically extend our trip by a few days.

    On our way to the beach we stopped at the shops near the gas station and managed to find a few more items to take home. Unfortunately, when we arrived at the beach we were dismayed to find strong winds, blowing sand and high surf. Not wanting to haul everything back to the car we decided to brave the elements and setup our chairs a little way down from Pearl Beach. We were only there about 20 minutes before the waves started to overtake our spot, so we quickly packed up and scurried over to rent umbrella and chairs from CaribWaterplay.

    By now it was past noon, and we decided to enjoy our picnic before the weather got any worse. As luck would have it, mere minutes after lunch we started to feel light sprinkles, and then the rain began to pour. Argh! This day at the beach just wasn’t going quite as planned. We covered our things as best we could and, along with everyone else on the beach, ran for cover at Pearl. We were quick enough to score a couple of seats at the bar, and we proceeded to enjoy a cocktail (or two) until the weather cleared. The sun eventually came back out, but we decided to throw in the towel and make our way back to the villa.

    For our last night we made reservations at Tamarin. As we drove past Eden Roc we were thrilled to see the property lit up in preparation for its eventual opening later that month. It was glorious with all the landscaping lights – and an absolutely beautiful sight to behold. We were disappointed that we wouldn’t be able to see everything in action on this trip.

    When we made our reservation online we had requested a table in the garden, and upon arrival were shown to a cozy spot amidst the palms. Sadly, it didn’t take long to realize that the large table behind us had four small children, each equipped with their own hand-held video game console. Ugh. We figured we’d just order a drink and sit tight until they left, but at that point a waiter arrived to begin taking their order. We were able to speak with the hostess, and she was more than willing to fulfill our request to move. But, as had been our luck the rest of the day, our new table was not equipped with an umbrella and it soon began to rain.

    We were right next to a large cabana-type structure, so our waitress took our place settings and drinks inside. Much to our disappointment the air inside the cabana was very still, and the humidity was unbearable. We managed to deal with the situation until the rain let up, and then immediately asked to move back to the outdoor spot. I think it was pretty safe to say we were the staff’s “high-maintenance customers” of the evening.

    With all the confusion of moving here and there, neither Kelly nor I can remember our appetizers that evening. We did remember to take photos of the main course, and we can say without hesitation that both dishes were outstanding. Kelly had the mahi-mahi with sweet potatoes, puffed black rice and vanilla coconut oil. I had the pan-seared tuna with satay sauce, mixed vegetables and peanuts. Both the mahi-mahi and the tuna were perfectly cooked, and the sauces accompanying the dishes turned an otherwise simple piece of fish into a work of art.


    After our table was cleared we started to feel a few more raindrops, and we interpreted this as a sign to call it a night. We were a little disappointed we wouldn’t be able to order dessert, and as we were paying the bill we both looked at each other with the same idea: Banana Crumble! We hopped in the car and made it to Les Bananiers 30 minutes before closing time.

    The restaurant was empty except for two other tables finishing their meal. We explained that we simply wanted dessert and a glass of champagne, and they were more than willing to oblige. The banana crumble was just as we had remembered - warm bananas atop a bed of fudgy chocolate sauce, followed by sweet, crunchy topping and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. (My chivalrous husband let me devour the pirouette cookie.) We both agreed this was the crowning glory of our otherwise odd, disjointed day.


    Back at the villa we sat on the deck gazing at the reflective lights from the cruise ships in the water down below. One of our favorite activities over breakfast involved reading the daily news to see which ships would be in port. We knew from that morning’s edition that both ships would be leaving by midnight and eventually, one by one, they headed out to sea. It was sad to watch them go, their lights slowly fading away, knowing that we’d be making our own departure in a few hours. But, just like the ships, we knew we’d be back again. And as we drifted off to sleep the thought of planning a return vacation helped our sadness disappear.

  2. #2
    cec1 is offline
    SBH Insider Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 5,695

    Re: Part 9 - November 2019 Trip Report

    Amy . . . a tour de force in your journal! Very grateful to have shared your visit!

    Re: visit to Le P’tit Morne . . . it’s a unique & wonderful accommodation — as you also would find Suger’s “rustic” rooms at Auberge de la Petit Anse. Moreover, proprietors at both are “the real thing” among SBH hostelries. For better or worse, the ever-growing inventory of bigger & grander island villas obscures the authenticity of traditional island hospitality, which these hotels evoke.

    Hope to see you & Kelly on your next visit!

    a bientot!

  3. #3
    amyb is offline
    SBH Insider Joined: Apr 2008 Glen Cove,L. I., NY Posts: 26,340

    Re: Part 9 - November 2019 Trip Report

    Thank you for these fabulous posts. I too am sad to see it end.

    Keep in touch.
    Remember Yesterday, Dream About Tomorrow, But Live Today.

  4. #4
    GMP62 is offline
    SBH Insider Joined: Feb 2015 Martinsville, NJ Posts: 1,704

    Re: Part 9 - November 2019 Trip Report

    We have stayed a few nights at P’tit Morne extending one of our trips and the views are hard to beat. I’m certain either hotel would be to your liking!

    Enjoy planning your return trip and we will look forward to reading of your future St. Barth adventures!

Similar Threads

  1. Part 3 - November 2019 Trip Report
    By lvbookworm in forum St Barts Trip Reports Forum
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 02-17-2020, 10:49 PM
  2. Part 5 - November 2019 Trip Report
    By lvbookworm in forum St Barts Trip Reports Forum
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 01-21-2020, 12:08 AM
  3. Part 4 - November 2019 Trip Report
    By lvbookworm in forum St Barts Trip Reports Forum
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 01-17-2020, 12:52 PM
  4. Part 1 - November 2019 Trip Report
    By lvbookworm in forum St Barts Trip Reports Forum
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 01-16-2020, 01:03 PM
  5. Part 2 - November 2019 Trip Report
    By lvbookworm in forum St Barts Trip Reports Forum
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 01-15-2020, 12:18 AM


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts