We were invited to stay with friends on SBH in February 2001 (maybe 2002?). We were travelling from London which meant the most sensible route seemed to be through Antigua since there were direct flights on BA, Virgin Atlantic and a few other European airlines.
Booking a flight from ANU to SBH meant using a travel agent in those days, and we ended up with a Winair flight leaving about 90 minutes after our BA flight landed. Of course, we landed behind the Virgin flight and at least one other very large airplane.
In those days, ANU airport was about the size of current day SBH and passport control was swamped with all of those passengers off of those 747s! My rather direct German partner (husband now) took charge and dragged me to the front of the line so that we could make it in time for the Winair flight. Phew!
But, of course, there was no Winair staff at the Winair checkin stand. We eventually tracked down someone in a Winair uniform who told us that a) the last flight left an hour ago and our flight had been cancelled several months ago, and b) we did not actually have a valid ticket as our travel agent had gone out of business without paying them. He told us to come back in the morning and someone could help us figure it all out then.
We called several hotels near the airport but were unable to get a room for one night. Someone (maybe an official airport info person, maybe a friendly local?) said they could book us a room for the night and we jumped in a taxi that took us about 2 miles to a building behind a shop at the end of the runway. They had a room. With florescent lights and a mattress on some springs. After a long flight, anything will do. Until about 11pm when a street light outside of the window came on and the rooster underneath thought it must be sunrise. He crowed his head off all night long. I slept not at all.
Winair did sell us another ticket the next day, took our bags......somewhere, and told us to wait at the gate. The gate? There were several. No signs. Winair flights weren't on posted on a screen or a board anywhere. We had no idea what was going to happen. Somehow, we saw a small group of people lining up to be taken to a plane. The guy in charge turned out to be the pilot and he casually told us to follow him. I wasn't really sure what was happening at this point.
I think I actually sat in the co-pilots seat for that flight - don't they have to have 2 pilots on flights these days? Or maybe it was the outrageous approach past Gustavia harbour and over the hill and down the runway to the sea that keeps that flight etched in my mind. We finally arrived on the island about 15 hours late.
They say that the best places are hard to get to. So true of SBH, at least for the first 3 or 4 of our trips. We have other stories! So much better these days.
We were met by a couple of our friends at the airport while the others prepared breakfast at the villa. The drive was mesmerising and we eventually wound our way to the end of a road near the top of Vitet. The villa was called Tranquil. It was fairly simple then but I think it has undergone a huge renovation since those days. But the views!
My aforementioned German husband walked out onto the balcony and took in the sight out over Marigot and Grand cul du Sac. He turned quickly and virtually stomped his foot to attention before announcing, "We stay!" Everyone melted into hysterical laughter, although, to this day, nobody really knows if he meant to be that funny.
Our friends were the best guides to introduce us to the island and they had a routine. Saline featured heavily. And Tamarin at least 3 times that week. I still love Tamarin but those first visits were magical - the tree, the garden, the parrot, the hidden spaces, the cocktails..... Pure relaxation.
We fell in love with the island and have since discovered new and equally amazing places and restaurants and people. We have fallen into a routine on our visits over the years. It's a fabulous routine and I wouldn't change a thing. We will return next year for our 11th visit and 6th year in a row.
Yes, the best places are hard to get to. But SBH is worth the trip every time.