Trip Report June 23 - July 3, 2019

MiamiGuy

New Member
Initial comment: This was my 5[SUP]th [/SUP]trip to the island, though first time with the kids.

Day 1: Arrival St. Barth Commuter– these people are really awesome. Granted, we had a private charter so service was expected to be good, but it was excellent. On arrival in SXM they seamlessly took care of our baggage from our incoming USA flight, and whisked us to the departure terminal, avoiding Immigration/Customs altogether. They even managed to cut our long layover short by departing early, getting us into SBH almost an hour early. N.B.: the airport SXM is a very unpleasant place to spend a few hours, there’s nothing to do and no good food & beverage options. Next time will probably route through San Juan. After arrival at SBH, checked in to villa (Sibarth was GREAT meeting us at airport and transporting our bags) and then had a GREAT dinner at Le Repaire (highly recommend the lobster pasta). This place turned out to be a really good spot for a first-night dinner.

Day 2: Lazy morning getting comfortable at the villa, then lunch at Fish Corner. Was a little hard to find (got conflicting directions from nearby shop owners, including the store directly next store). But the trek was worth it – the fish dishes here are phenomenal. Service super friendly. After lunch drove to Gouverneur and had a glorious afternoon swimming and sunning on one of the top beaches on the island. Dinner at Bonito was SPECTACULAR with respect to both food (steak was great) and service. Easily one of the top 3 meals on island.

Day 3: Pearl Beach for lunch. Was just so-so. On reflection, although it wasn’t “bad,” it turned out to be the second worst meal we had in 10 days on the island. Would have gone somewhere else in retrospect. On the other hand, the beach chairs are a nice amenity (although you pay extra for them) as is watching the planes land/takeoff. Dinner at Maya’s, which was even better than I remembered it to be. Limited menu, but a couple of terrific items is all we needed. Warm, friendly service. Easy to see why this place is so well-loved. I’ve been back here every time I visited the island, and this time was actually the best, so IMO this place has only gotten better.

Day 4: Morning at Saline beach. Lots of seaweed in the water, but we happened to venture forth across the rocks on the left side and found a perfectly sublime spot to swim. Lunch at nearby Grain de Sel – wasn’t expecting much but was very pleasantly surprised. Had the whole fresh caught fish and it was delicious, and the service was great. Afternoon shopping in Gustavia, cocktails at the villa, then off to Tamarin for dinner. It’s been a few years so I almost forgot how beautiful a scene Tamarin is. If you haven’t been, do yourself a favor and go. Only problem this night was one of my kids wasn’t feeling well so we had trouble enjoying the experience, although I have to say everything we ordered (pork belly and ribeye steak, especially) were excellent. (We went back on last day – only place we went to twice this trip.)

Day 5: Another lazy morning at villa. Then off to lunch at Villa Marie/Francois Plantation. My wife thought this was the best meal she had the whole trip. We really loved it, food, atmosphere and service all first class. Numerous turtles visited our table during lunch, which my kids loved, and they welcomed the kids to spend some time in the pool after the meal (not all hotels will do this for non-guests). Great lunch at Villa Marie! Then off to Flamands for a GLORIOUS, actually PERFECT, afternoon of swimming. This beach rivals any I have seen, and I’ve been around. Back to villa, watched sunset in the villa pool drinking cocktails, then late dinner with the wife at Ociela, which was very nice (another great lobster pasta).

Day 6: In the morning took the wife for a couple’s spathing at the Hotel Christopher. Waves crashing right outside the spa treatment room – simply amazing. Then lunch at Le Sereno – man these Italian guys are super friendly and the food is equally awesome. Great lunch! Lazy afternoon at the villa, then dinner with the kids at Black Ginger. I liked the food at Black Ginger, and the manager and wait staff are very nice, but I guess because it’s open air, all the cancer-stick-suckers (a/k/a cigarette smokers) feel entitled to light up at will and ruin everyone else’s dining experience.

Day 7: Morning boat charter with Jicky Marine. Sailed a beautiful catamaran to Colombier and did some amazing snorkeling (saw tons of fish and several sea turtles) as well as some time on the beach, which as anyone who has been there knows is hands-down the best beach on the island (and one of the best in the entire Caribbean). Crew onboard was terrific, and the boat itself was very nice. Back in Gustavia, pizza for lunch at Isoletta, which was very good, though very hot out on their outdoor patio. Afternoon back at Gouverneur, a little rocky that day but still my fave beach after Colombier and tied with Flamands. Then back at the villa (swim in the pool). Ran over to Lorient beach for a quick solitaire swim (hadn’t been there before even after 5 trips so wanted to check it out – it was a little underwhelming). Dinner with the wife at Christo (Hotel Christopher). SUPERB! This place really stands out. Exquisite food, setting, and service.

Day 8: Lunch at Shellona. Was expecting not to like it. Turned out loving it! Great seafood, extremely good service. Afterwards swam/snorkeled with the kids in the water off Shell Beach – this too was better than expected, lots of amazing fish right there! Cocktails at villa, getting ready for dinner. Dropped off au pair at Nikki Beach, took wife and kids to Langouste. This turned out to be VERY DISAPPOINTING. Easily the worst meal of the trip for me, although in the restaurant’s defense I will say my kids liked the menu enfant.

Day 9: Lunch at Le Toiny Beach Club. Stayed at this hotel 4 years ago when the beach club was just under construction, so was curious how it turned out, and found it to be really great. A really nice way to spend a long lunch. Trip down on the jeep is super cool for the little ones, the food is quite delicious, and the view and overall atmosphere was really, really nice. Will go here again on my next visit for sure. Back to Gouverneur for some afternoon swimming, then crepes at Le Creperie in Gustavia (very good!). Dinner with the wife at Orega in Gustavia, really liked the spicy tuna sushi.

Day 10: Morning at Flamands with the kids. Hard to image any more perfect beach conditions. Lunch at Nikki Beach. Had to see what all the fuss is about. Was expecting to hate it but had a great time. Liked the food a lot (shrimp appetizer was my fave) and the service quite friendly. Watched the USA soccer ladies kick some English butt! Afternoon shopping in Gustavia to give the wife a chance to buy some more clothes. Because the creperie and all the gelato stores in Gustavia were unfortunately closed, stopped at the frozen yogurt place in St. Jean, it was not bad. Got ready for dinner with some cocktails and a short swim at the villa. Went back to Tamarin for dinner (canceled Eddy’s to do this) and was given a very nice table in the garden, though would have enjoyed a bit more breeze given the temperature. Still enjoyed the food at Tamarin, but not as much as the first time. Kids loved playing in the “house” though, and running around the trees. All in all quite an enjoyable evening.

Day 11: Departure day. Transfer through SXM more difficult than coming in, probably due to the fact that we went Winair and not St. Barth Commuter. Long layover in SXM, killed some time at Sunset bar but that place is close to my definition of Hell.

Other observations: Went with the advice on this forum and rented a car through Gumbs – this was a great decision, Odile is the best! I’m converted, will always use Gumbs from now on. Sibarth agency service is the best I’ve experienced so far, and I’ve now rented from all three big agencies (Wimco, St. Barth Properties and Sibarth). St. Barth Commuter is far better than Winair, will always fly them from now on. The island is missing a good liquor store (couldn’t find a premium bottle of bourbon anywhere). Lots of road construction at the moment, but of course that’s only temporary. Stopped by a looksie at Eden Rock, though still under construction, should be great when it’s ready to re-open in November. Found the island to be far more kid-friendly than I thought it would be. My kids really loved St. Barth. Looking forward to the next trip!
 
Nice writeup! Thanks for the detail!

A few comments:

I avoid SXM too, but your Commuter Charter, which I've done, can limit your time on SXM to 15-20 minutes from the time that your feet get off of the bus. My next trip may involve a Saturday, so I won't be going near SXM on timeshare changeover day. I find ways to make Tradewind work, which sometimes defy conventional thinking.

I'm with you on Le Repaire for a first night dinner. Easy, especially after a travel day. It's our default restaurant - can't decide where to go, let's go to Repaire.

Your comments re: cancer stick suckers - couldn't agree more. The worst are the Americans (never the French in my experience) who light up cigars. If more SBH restaurants eliminated all smoking then fewer would feel any impact from doing so.

As to Lorient, with kids, check the East side, closer to where the boats are moored. You may find sea turtles around the sea grass.

Glad to hear about your dinner at Christo. I'll be on the beach in Lorient for most of November, and I keep looking at it and saying "I've got to get over there for dinner..." I've been more successful at visting Mango for lunch. Plus, I can't thank the Chef enough for just being outstanding on a day when we dined at Mango with a particularly difficult dining problem, and his going off-menu (at his own insistence) to resolve it.

Bourbon - I don't know where to find a premium bottle of Bourbon on the island either, (I do know where to look though), but I know who will. Drop by Quarter Kitchen + Cocktail Lab in Gustavia. American owner Chris knows a thing or two about Bourbon, and has a few interesting bottles behind the bar. If you make a reservation to dine there, you can request access to their limited access Rhum Room speakeasy, which has hundreds of different rums available.

Great detail. Thanks again!
 
ref the bourbon...you might want to try the American Gourmet on rue General de Gaulle....I know that they had some bottles of "Pappy" for sale and I believe that they also offered other bourbons. You might be able to reserve a bottle before you take your next trip...Their email address is yachtprovisioning@hotmail.com
 
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Good reading and enjoyed your family time on St Barths through your coverage. Glad you are planning to return with or without the little ones. The island welcomes all and has things todo for infants up to seniors. SBH is my favorite destination.
 
Disagreed with you earlier on the Langouste impression, although it could have been an off night, but everything else is spot on. Great write-up! Sounds like you'll need a vacation after all the constant activity.
 
Sorry about Langouste but everyone has a down night once in a while. We love Odile. Agree on Repaire- easy, simple, reasonable, happy faces, on the harbor... life is good.
Thank you for your report.
 
Your trip report is fantastic - thank you. A few comments to add to your descriptions...

Christo - In March we dined for Monday Fish Night so we could listen to Annie and Jaya. The service, food and setting were exquisite. The wait staff is from one of the hospitality universities in France and were top notch.

Bonito - Agree, the overall experience is SPECTACULAR. It makes me sad to read that other diners on the forum felt rushed by their waiter as we never have. We are treated like family by the Bonito team and Jerome Robert is especially wonderful.

Grain de Sel - We had a great dinner with Ellen and Rosemond and both ordered the whole fresh snapper. Greg Orega was enjoying dinner at the table next to us. We liked it so much we had lunch there the next day after a visit to Saline.

Nikki Beach - Never disappoints... great food and great service in a splendid setting. If you don't want the party scene, skip Sunday at 3:30.
 
Great report! Very much enjoyed reading it . . . and delighted that you had the kids along. For many years, I’ve promoted the island as “kid friendly,” especially in Spring / Summer months. I hope that you can fit Eddy’s into your next trip . . . most especially with kids along — a great spot for them.
 
It's fun for us to read about trips that include their children, since we brought our girls every year starting when they were 18 months old. St. Barth's is a part of the fabric of
their lives--just like ours! Our older daughter had our first grandchild in November, and they are all coming with us next March. The circle of life--trite though it is, it's so true!
 
That is just wonderful for you to be able to all share St. Barths, Deb. Congrats on your new grandchild.
 
Thanks! She is beautiful! A new light in our lives! We can't wait to play with her on the beach and in the shallow pools of Lorient!
 
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