May visit 2019

Thanks for all the wonderful comments.

Tuesday was a mostly villa day. Morning run to the March turned into a tour of the east side of the island. Drove to the end of the Flamands road and checked out the lower trail to Columbier. Have yet to do the hike and considered it, but alas don't have proper shoes. L'annee prochaine, peut-etre. Driving up from Flamands, decided to turn right and head up the point overlooking Columbier. Definitely not trying the high trail. After taking in the views, contemplated the "death road" again (quite the thrill last year), but swung down into Corossol instead. Over the hill into Public, up around the Tourmente and then pulled into the Marche parking lot. A quick stroll along St Jean to check out Lil Rock, as it was totally forgotten the other day. Looks interesting. Jack-hammering at Eden Rock caught our attention, so decided to see how it is progressing. So much work going on across the entire complex. Can't imagine it being completely ready in six months, nor imagine anyone wanting to "relax" on the loungers set up on the narrow strip of sand. Back at the villa, the femme de menage has come and gone, so rather than setting up nearby on the beach, we spread out poolside.

Dinner at Orega tonight, and with the sunset looks promising, we get ready to head up to the lighthouse. About six, the skies open up and it's one of those 10 minute downpours. Not enough to fill the cistern, but enough to put the Jimny into FWD. A bit early for our reservation, so we decide to climb up the hill for cocktails at Bonito. Wife isn't much of a seafood eater, so we've never been, but such a beautiful restaurant. Enjoyed a tropical concoction and a ti punch as evening settled in over the harbor below. Contemplated another round, but decided against it and strolled down the hill and around the corner. Were met by Greg and Tuti with warms hugs and bissous. They are such amazing hosts. They started us off with a small sample of tuna topped with fois gras and a teriyaki reduction. yum. Next an amouse bouche vegetable soup dumpling (liquid inside, so to be eaten in a single bite). Our entrée is wagyu dumplings and St Jacques carpaccio with shiso sorbet. For our plat, my wife had duck two ways - confit and breast - and I the Chilean Sea Bass. Desert is a "free fall berry" creation and the Yuzu Tarte. Truly amazing creations and the most creative presentations. Friday is their last night, Tuti and Clement and getting married next week, so we have been invited back for a cocktail or two. Love, love Orega.

Some photos:

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Saline Wednesday

After some back and forth this morning, we headed out the long way to Saline - Flamands to Tourmente to St Jean to Lorient around Pt Milou through the cul-de-sacs, along Grand Fond, up the long hill, left on the correct road, another left along the other correct road, left at Tamarin, a stop at Grain de Sel for lunch reservations, into the parking lot, unload the Jimny, trudge up the trail, climb the hill and then THAT VIEW!

Beach fairly occupied on the right, so we head left. Lot's of sargassum beginning about halfway, while none on the right, which is probably why it's "crowded". We are more beach than surf people, so it's good. Fancy travel umbrella survived Gouverneurs, but can it withstand Saline? Answer is a resounding YES!

Couple of hours later, our lunch reservation nears, so we pack up as the rain appears off shore. Been caught before, so we hurry through the unbearably hot sand (note to selves - wear shoes). Saline does extract a certain price, which is probably why we prefer Gouverneurs.

Surprisingly, the parking lot is completely full, which is unlike previous years. Maybe it's timing. Other beaches were probably empty. Drive the short distance to Grain de Sel where we are promptly seated. Been hit and miss in previous visits, so it has fallen out of the rotation. Usually the food has been fantastic, while the service lags or vice-versa. This year the service was good, considering they appeared short handed and a fairly full restaurant of mostly locals. I had the Durade with creole sauce, which was as fantastic as ever, but the wife's Thai chicken salad was over salted chicken. Dessert was skipped and we departed, "boite" of salad "sans poulet" in hand.

Quick stop at the Marche for Rose in anticipation of a poolside afternoon, except the rains arrive. Island needs it, so back at the villa we unload and sit back for some light reading. Restless, and with the rain stopping, decide to stop at the wine shop in public for the Japanese whiskey we had at Orega last night before heading into Gustavia for a little shopping and a glass of rose at Le Select. Find ourselves next to an adult family of daytrippers from St Martin, who peppered us with questions about Texas, the island and life in general. Enjoyable conversation despite one of the party's neon thong being distracting enough to attract the attention of the gendarmes, who told her to cover up. Always a fun time at Le Select.

Evening was spent enjoying grilled entrecotes, potatoes au gratin (thanks Google for helping us decipher the oven's graphics) and leftover chicken-less thai salad. After finishing a bottle of bourgogne, we took the chairs and a VC out to the beach with an almost black sky. Along the horizon, storm clouds appeared to be sliding along toward St Martin, while breaks in the clouds revealed several constellations. Today was a good day.

Some photos:

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Those day trippers must have been the intelligent bunch of folks we saw earlier on St. Jean beach who thought it would be fun to stand at the end of the runway and wave to the landing plane...they were then scattered by what is now a loud speaker set up at end of runway with a most urgent message warning them to leave..never heard that before...quite effective
 
Very interesting: “Enjoyable conversation despite one of the party's neon thong being distracting enough to attract the attention of the gendarmes, who told her to cover up.” Sounds like the visitor was demonstrating poor judgment, but it hasn’t been long since women AND men could be found eating at several beachfront restaurants in incredibly immodest thong beachwear. Probably more tolerance for “distraction” at a beach venue.
 
Think they had come from Nikki Beach where that was more normal, but in the heart of Gustavia apparently not so. I didn't witness the scolding, but my wife said it was a female Gendarme and she was very clear in her instructions.
 
Are you a professional photographer? Those are incredibly sharp pictures.

Thanks, but no. Upgraded to a Google Pixel XL at Christmas. Camera is really nice (much better than the wife's iPhone). Has a night lens, which is what i used to take the night shot of the big dipper. Just pointed it straight up and held still for about 5 seconds. Google does the rest.
 
How is the foilage/vegetation at VDD coming along after the hurricane? It looked pretty damaged in the summer of 2018 when we visited Flamands. We truly loved staying there and loved the privacy those trees provided.

Also, @KevinS, if you're thinking of selling any of your arrows, please hit me up with a message. I'd love one for my pool bar area.
 
Sargassum to the left of me sargassum to the right of me, here I am stuck in the middle...

Nice sunrise this morning, but lot's of sargassum on Flamands. Sun sort of iffy. Took a chance and headed off to Gouverneurs for the morning. Beautiful all the way down to the beach and then ... Sargassum everywhere. Really bad up front, but ok further down. Decide to give it a try as nobody else around. Set up the chairs and super umbrella and settle in for the morning. Sun nice and hot, so we are good. Crew clearing it off and by the time they are near us, it is time for lunch back at the villa. Cloudy over Flamands, but not enough to not open a bottle of rose.

About six, we clean up and head over to villa creole for some shopping and then over the hill to saline and a reservation at L'Esprit. New setting is amazing as is the food. I had the tuna tartare and Turbot, but the wife did one better with the duck spring rolls (OMG) and scallops with foies gras (OMG!, OMG!). Dessert was an incredible banana & pineapple meringue creation. As Herve our waiter said, "vous allez mourir". Hibiscus rhum accompanied the check. A kiss to Jean Claude and we are back to the villa. Final dessert is a scoop of mango-passion fruit sorbet from Petite Columbe doused in champagne with the waves crashing on the beach behind us.

Some photos:

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Yeah, the camera is working really well on that new Google Pixel XL phone.

The phrases "over the hill" and "up the hill" have special meaning to those of us who visit restaurants in Lurin and Saline, or who take the "Lurin Superhighway" home from town.
 
How is the foilage/vegetation at VDD coming along after the hurricane? It looked pretty damaged in the summer of 2018 when we visited Flamands. We truly loved staying there and loved the privacy those trees provided.

Foliage about the same as last year. Three of the palm trees survived Irma with one of them now leaning over. Vines (sea grapes?) are filling in from the empty lot next door. Wall provides the privacy now, but also blocks the view while sitting down. Do miss the old VDD.
 
SBH Bucket list complete

Spurred on by fellow forum members, we don our least inappropriate footwear and head off to our first visit to Columbier. With bottles to photograph, decide to take the Jimny. If one hasn't been, turn left at the circle and continue on the road with the Auberge de a Petite Anse on the right. Signs make it appear that it may be a private road, but they are only referring to the hotel parking. Probably takes 100 yards or more off the hike. Overall things weren't bad at all as steps have been fashioned in many of the more difficult areas. Twenty minutes in and we were overlooking beautiful blue water edged by bright white sand.

Six or seven sailboats and a small yacht are scattered around with several dinghies on shore. Probably about a dozen people on the beach or snorkeling, including a crew setting up for their client's lunch. We followed the flat road toward the Rockefeller dock and strolled back along the beach. Didn't bring chairs, so after lingering for maybe thirty minutes, we headed back to the villa. Still partial to Gouverveurs, but this might be the prettiest of all the beaches. Rubber soled sandals ended up a non-issue, so I highly recommend visiting Columbier at least once. Make sure to bring water as it gets pretty hot, even at 9 am.

With the maid finished, went out to the pool with dictionary in hand to read through the various journals picked up at the Marche. Saw in "Le News" that Chez Relonde's lunch special is curried durade. Have passed by this place dozens of times, but never stopped. Decided today is a day of firsts, so about noon, put on our shoes and take a short stroll down the road. Very low-key and comfortable with two tables of locals enjoying their meal amid lively conversation. After this morning hike, two ice cold Caribs really hit the spot. Both durades (curried and grilled) were excellent as was the accompanied rice and complementary rhum maison (vanille et passion). Rest of the day was spent poolside enjoying a chilled magnum of Clos Beylesse. Always hesitated buying one as it's a bit more expensive than two regular bottles, but had to do it. Another item checked off the list.

Pre-sunset stroll down to the Cheval Blanc and back. Can't imagine that their guests are the least bit happy with all the hammering going on at the old Taiwana. I know we are not thrilled at our end, but then we aren't paying those prices. Planned on heading into town for the "Rain Dance" and drinks for Orega's closing, but another Clos Beylesse put a stop to that. Dinner is thus grilled steak and brie sandwiches in the villa. Dessert is the rest of the previous night's sorbet with the next to last VC.

Some photos:

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