May visit 2019

Sprinkles, rain and a deluge.

Villa faces the east, so was awoken by an amazing sunrise at 5:30am. Still too early to be up, so back to bed for a couple of hours. With maid set to arrive, we pack up and head to Gouverneurs, which now involves that crazy curve up to Lurin. A bit cloudy driving down the hill with lot's of apparent sargassum. As we trudge toward the entrance, the beach is roped off and a single backhoe is gathering up large amounts of seaweed. The operator notices us and all but said the beach is closed. When I asked about Saline, he said it's just as bad and recommended St Jean. Haven't been so make a couple of stops along the way (drop off a Carte Postale, etc...) before setting up on the "pelican" side. Cloudy, but fairly quiet with a few families splashing in the calm water. Not too much into the party vibe, so have avoided Nikki Beach all these years, but this has been a trip of "firsts", so why not. Beachside dining is always wonderful and the service was good as was the food. Had a beef thai salade and the "Trendy" sushi platter. Nice assortment, although not Uchi (for my Texas friends). About the time our café gourmand arrives, the sprinkles start, which forces the day bed crowd off the beach.

With no sunshine likely, we stop by the airport to check on the extra luggage situation with Tradewind. Turns out flight have been booked, so we have been liberated of the 100 lbs limit on our departure. Thus we can go shopping and fill up a single suitcase for a solo trip on Friday, while the remaining two bags come with us on Saturday. Hallelujah! Immediately stop by the liquor store across road for some Reimonenq Rhum (for ti puches) and Havana Club 3 anos (daiquiris and mojitos). A short rest at the villa and a change of clothes for some Gustavia shopping and our Jicky cruise. As we head out, the rain picks up and the cruise appears likely to be more champagne than sunset. La Gloriette rhums are purchased "pour voyager" and the wife got her coral heart sculpture at Teck. Drop everything off in the Jicky and scurry off to the catamaran.

Meet our companions, including our friends with whom we have done this for the past five years, as well as another couple from Houston and couple of second-timers and a newlywed couple also from Texas. With a sunset obviously out of the question and rain still falling, all elect to venture forth, shades of Gilligan's Island. About hallway out of the harbor, the rain gets more steady and we hurry to the back of the boat for cover and then the skies just open up. With rain coming in sideways and diluting our champagne, the decision is made to abandon the trip and head back the port. The Jicky people were wonderful and offered either rebooking for another day, or for those of us who couldn't, a full refund. Class organization. With restaurants still closed, most of us head over the Victoria for an hour or so of conversation and cocktails.

About 8, we stroll over to QG with our friends for our regular post-cruise dinner. Never been. Beautiful restaurant, especially as the dining area reveals itself walking up the ramp. Lively crowd with almost the entire left side one big table of locals celebrating a birthday. Service was excellent and the food was quite good. Wife had the lobster tagliatelles (not quite La Langouste standard) and I the duck breast. First I've had since Maya's several years ago, so I can't really make a comparison. Desert was shared "Champagne Gourmands". A carafe of rhum vanille was left on the table, which led to another hour of conversation and catching up.

Some Photos:

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Just think of them as natural mosquito control.

I tried, but when they are whizzing by my head at midnight, it's tough to think anything else but "WTF was THAT?" and "How in the heck to I make it go away!" The next couple of nights I thought of them as mosquito control from INSIDE the large sliding glass door.
 
I tried, but when they are whizzing by my head at midnight, it's tough to think anything else but "WTF was THAT?" and "How in the heck to I make it go away!" The next couple of nights I thought of them as mosquito control from INSIDE the large sliding glass door.

Exactly. Buzzed by one last night as we returned from dinner. Unfortunately mosquitoes still around this morning.
 
In all the years, I have not had any bat experiences. Maybe they hang out during the day at the Autour Du Rocher ruins.
 
I have never seen them anywhere else on the island; just diving and sipping from the pool at Villa Bikini. Have you?
No, but most of our visits have been spent on Flamands. Doesn't sound like you hang out by the south congress bridge much.
 
No, but most of our visits have been spent on Flamands. Doesn't sound like you hang out by the south congress bridge much.

I've kayaked from the Texas Rowing Center on LBL at sunset once to see the bats and one other time I organized a corporate group on a sunset "party boat". Both times gave me the eebie jeebies. Not much of a bat fan....especially at night...alone... while swimming...sans suit. EEEK!
 
Autour Lorient

Cloudy Ascension day in Lorient. No maid, but alas, no sun either. Invited our friends over for a dinner at "our place", so crept down the driveway to the L'Oasis for a couple of extra steaks and additional vegetables. Being the only "big" store open, it was a bit crowded and a little chaotic. Some reading and touching base with the office and it's lunch time. Down the hill and through the construction zones to the JoJo burger. Fish sandwich was as good as I remember, although a little light on the fish, and the premium cheeseburger was excellent as well. Restaurant also quite crowded with both locals and Americans. Finished, we went for a stroll. First, we paid our respects to Johnny and then crossed over to the beach, passing by the surf shack, which is looking good after having found itself in the cemetery during Irma.

A few "sun"bathers and the right side of the beach and a number of villas in various states of repair. Heading back toward the other side, there are a few surfers idling in the waves and teenagers running and squealing in and out of the water. Quite a few open areas on this side, including the old Eden Rock pop-up bar. Get to the end, and look up at Autour de Roche. No gate or fence or sign, so step up on the road and wander on up. Few minutes later and we are at the top, silently singing the Jimmy Buffett tune. Surprised to find such a small footprint, so it's hard to image what the place must have been like. Kind of creepy, made all the more so with the wind and overcast skies.

Back at the villa, some more reading and napping, before we straighten up and being prepping dinner. Friends arrive around six under an interesting pink sky. Much conversation follows as steaks are put on the grill, potatoes roasted and haricot verts sautéed. A nice bordeaux purchased from Baccus across the road makes a great paring. After dinner drinks keep the conversation going, until close to midnight, then it's time to part ways for another year.

Some Photos:

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A pleasure meeting you and Lynn. Your adventures were interesting to read I and these reports took me places I have yet to visit.

Safe travels. Take good care of each other.
 
I was thinking the same thing. As a matter of fact we just returned from wandering around the ruins.
Bats live in many small spaces. They have an undeserved bad reputation. Bats eat an amazing amount of mosquitoes each night. The best bat scene was Woody Allen attempting to kill one.
 
That Jimmy Buffett tune, Autour du Rocher, was originally written by an island band, Alerte 2B. The band consisted of the Ledee twins Henri and Leon (then of Le Grain de Sel), Jean-Jaques Kraif, and Marcello Limodin (former chef at the old K'fe Massai). Buffett's version is a bit different. Buffett and the Alerte 2B band members share the songwriting credit on Buffett's version.
 
Final day

A bit of a slow start after finishing off the remaining wine last night. Made my way down the driveway and across the street for a baguette and veinnoiserie. Arms full, much slower crawl back up to the villa. Still warm, they make for a delicious breakfast with coffee and Malo yoghurt. Real trick to leave the island with an empty refrigerator. Think it might happen this year. About eleven, pack up the extra suitcase with the beach items, Rhum and Rum and head up to airport to hand it off to the Tradewind folks for an early flight to San Juan. Fingers crossed it is waiting for us tomorrow.

More refrigerator cleaning at lunch and then an afternoon alternating between outdoor reading and indoor organizing, depending on the weather. Books finished, we turn on Canel+ and catch the final episode of "4 Marriages pour une miel de lune". Merveille and Francois won, so we are happy for them. Quick shower and a change of clothes and we are off for the final dinner of the trip at Maya's. After a pretty dreary day, the sunset had some pretty interesting colors and textures, so stop to take some pictures.

Real obstacle course getting to the restaurant with even the side streets getting rebuilt. Great to see Dora's smiling face as we are seating along the rail. Really missed them this time last year, so it's wonderful to see the restaurant back to its old self. Instead of the usual Tartare and tomato salad, opened with Langouste gratin and pho soup. Both were good, but thinking we should have stuck with our original appetizers. I had the Scallops (San Jaques) which were beautifully cooked and the wife has a fairly large grilled veal chop, which was also great. Haricot vertes were very tender and the black rice never fails. Desert were the fabulous, an famous, Gateau aux chocolate and Gateau de L'orange. In between we had visits by Randy and then Maya, who thanked us for coming back to both the island and their restaurant. Alas, no Wilbert, but was told he is doing well and liking daytime work at Maya's To Go. A nice vanille, orange and café flavored rhum hit the spot. We bid a farewell, complete with bisous.

Long day tomorrow, so time for bed.

Some Photos:

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