SBH Musings #4 – A timeless period!

cec1

Senior Insider
Three weeks . . . it has been one of the best-ever trips (and continuing)! I’m reminded of a summertime visit in the early 80s. I was able to get to St. Barths only once or twice a year when I came to know SBH – usually only for a week each time. There were few telephones, and cell phones hadn’t come to the island. Certainly no internet. The “coconut telegraph” still was the primary communication source on the island . . . messages exchanged, for example, when two friends or family members, traveling along a road in opposite directions, would stop their cars (and traffic) in order to chat through open driver-side windows. It was such a commonplace occurrence that no one waiting in the cars behind each driver honked a horn or showed any sign of impatience.

Today. Road repair everywhere. Detours around the island (the worst is in Lorient). Hotel reconstruction at nearly every beach. Preparations for the annual hurricane threat. Parking wherever you go. Lazy, slow traffic (cycles excluded).

Yes, many restaurants are closed. But, arriving in mid-August, I had the good fortune of being part of many month-end “closing nights” – always festive, especially listening to the itineraries of waiters, chefs, bartenders, dishwashers, and owners . . . describing trips to Bali, France, Disney World, the Hamptons, Nantucket, New York, Thailand, Spain, Portugal, Greece, etc.. Infectious enthusiasm in each story.

There also are the people who remain on the island with children who are starting school . . . today seems to have been Day #1. It particularly was charming to drive this morning past the Ecole Maternelle (the pre-school, I believe) near Shell Beach. The scene must be repeated around the world . . . tiny little “tots,” holding hands with Moms & Dads, trying to look happy, as the children were led to slaughter (or so it seemed to the crying little ones holding onto a parent’s leg!). Nearby and in Lorient, the kids were a bit older, so walking to school, hand-in-hand with parents, the children looked more excited . . . seemingly eager to rejoin their friends on a playground. Smiling family units!

One of the weeks in this trip included a visit from a young friend who had a burning desire to surf St. Barths! It turned out that the waves weren’t great, but because I led him on his first night to what may be THE local surf bar – Sayolita (in a St. Jean space that used to be The Coffee Shop) – he met other young local surfer “dudes” who took him “under their wing.” From 8 in the morning to 8 at night, with only a short afternoon break each day, they showed my friend a welcome that evoked the spirit that many of us would call “the real St. Barths.” Eating together most nights, we enjoyed a great celebration of his 30[SUP]th[/SUP] birthday at L’Esprit . . . complete with large chocolate mousse dessert & a brightly sparkling “Roman candle.” I know that he’ll be back!

Maintenance work going on around the Villa. Small roof damage from Irma is being repaired (it has taken nearly a year to get attention to a small project). The Ipe deck around the pool is being replaced – the old one, worse for wear during 15 years of unremitting salt air and sun, annual power washings, and intermittent hurricanes. A few gaps in the garden are being “plugged” with new plants & shrubs. “Sonos” added to the Villa. New dishwasher, completing replacement of kitchen appliances damaged by salt-air intrusion from Irma. And a security camera installed at the entry gate (no infringement on privacy around the pool, and no actual or threatened problem . . . nonetheless, as one occasionally reads about an island burglary, I decided that it would offer some peace of mind to me (and guests) to know that any intruder will be caught on “Candid Camera”).

The more things change, the more they remain the same. Deep roots are seen everywhere, even as a new season brings renewal and fresh paint. August / September lay it open to see.
 
I am so happy your friend hooked up for a great surfing experience.

I enjoyed your Saying so long to a difficult back breaking season and like you I am looking forward to an October arrival and being a part of a renewed St Barths.

Thanks for letting us see and enjoy the end of the year wrap up with fun festivals, fabulous feasts,and fond farewells.
 
Love reading your musings! Brings a smile to my face and daydreams of returning once again with my bride.
 
Dennis, you always capture the spirit of the place and the moment so lovingly...book number two must be in the offing?
 
I saw that, Martin, and am sorry that I'll miss you. I'm leaving on Friday. I think that you'll have a great time. The island is so relaxed right now!
 
Maybe name the book- Musings on Ouanalao! As a side note, didn't know Ipe ever wore out but it is wood and the salt is tough on it as well as the strong winds!
 
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