SBH Musings -- #2: Food

cec1

Senior Insider
Restaurants! What can be said that hasn’t already been covered?


My commitment to lose 20 lbs will have to await another life . . . it’s not a viable goal on SBH when I find such great enjoyment in camaraderie with friends . . . many of whom are owners of the great restaurants that I love.


A very special surprise tonight. As I was going to my table at L’Esprit, a beautiful friend of 15+ years caught my eye: Maryse, the lovely former proprietor of Le Gommier, along the Saline salt pond (subsequently “PaCri” & “Meat & Potatoes”). Dining with Maryse were her husband, beautifully-aged parents, & stunningly pretty daughter, whom I remember holding as an infant. A happy walk down memory lane.


L’Esprit, my “go to” restaurant in the absence of Maya’s (i.e., when Maya’s is open, there’s always a coin toss to choose which special destination). I’ve been eating on the island for over 40 years (the experience could be a book!), so I feel qualified to rhapsodize about the restaurant’s exquisite food, service, staff, and ambiance — a great fit for this “old shoe.” Tonight’s dinner: Foie gras & mussels (petite little critters, arriving this morning from France) in a broth of slivered garlic cloves, coriander, finely diced tomatoes, small bits of sautéed prosciutto, and other spices. No cream, so very light.


Other places during this visit: I drive nearly every morning to Gustavia for a refreshing, healthful breakfast with Sandra Balayn at Cafe Gloriette. It’s not my old office, “La Gloriette” (more about that later), but Sandra’s offerings are personally prepared by her (with occasional help from son Noah) & superb! Her growing following at the restaurant is a warm, gregarious group . . . all of whom reach out to warmly greet me each morning. A classic & “local” SBH community of every age.


“QG” has been in the mix . . . you know about it from much other commentary. I like tables along the entry ramp at lunch.


Le Repaire . . . comfortable & reliable, with good food. Proprietor Eric is straight out of “central casting” — a gentleman of another era, whose manner & courtesy are transcendent.


Three meals (lunch & two dinners, including “closing night”) at Santa Fe. Proprietor David & his great team are another of the island’s particularly memorable dining “forces.” The chef, in anticipating a new “season,” has excelled in refining the menu. Among my favorite first courses, the tomato tarte, much like a Tarte Tatin, is an homage to the inspired tomato tarte offering of Manu, former much-loved proprietor of the restaurant. The Dover Sole is best on the island.


Eddy’s . . . without a doubt, supreme “comfort food,” in one of the most “chill” venues of the island. Closing night there — the evening of the Fete de St. Barthélemy — was packed, with many of us huddled at the back of the restaurant to view the evening’s stunning fireworks at 8 PM.


Le Grain de Sel . . . caught a lunch there before its closing — another “easy life” venue. Great people (clients & staff) & comfortably reliable (notably Creole in flavors), though I recommend that you seek a table near a fan – for air circulation when it’s warm and to ameliorate the cloud sometimes cast by nearby smokers. One fun evening there with a great band.


Another closing luncheon (someone has to do it!) at La Langouste. Benjamin, the much appreciated & missed proprietor, is said to have had successful medical treatment in Paris & — happily — will be returning for a Fall re-opening.


The Eden Rock “pop-up” in Lorient. I’ve previously written about it . . . a great, casual place with simple, straightforward, grilled luncheon items (I couldn’t have a meal there without corn on the cob from the bar-b-que!). I hope that it’ll re-open in mid-October (drumbeat suggests that it will, ‘til December 22).


Villa Marie / Francois Plantation . . . mixed reports, I know. But, I like to go there for its beautiful garden setting at lunch (haven’t yet made it to dinner) & always have a dish of sole in a white wine broth with slivered shiitake mushrooms. It’s pretty special.


Le Jardin, next to Marche U, was a happy destination a couple of times for lunch (exceptional steak tartare) . . . and always serves as a “go to” breakfast spot when I’m looking for fluffy scrambled eggs.


A lunch at Au Regal was only disappointing in the respect that Rosemond Greaux wasn’t there (in his “adult day care center").


The hamburger today at Le Piment was undistinguished, but GREAT frites! The bartenders / waiters also are worthy of memories of the exceptional staff at Hideaway – enthusiastic, smiling, “cool” people who have a mission of bringing you to a calm “space.” It’s impossible to rush here . . . but why would you want to?


Dinner a couple of nights ago at Les Bananiers was a lot of fun — great pizza, as renowned, & delicious duck. What made the evening particularly special, however, was the rain. It poured . . . unabated for hours! As a result, no one got up to leave. There were sleeping infants, others being discretely nursed, and happy adults enjoying multiple refills on wine, beer, and cocktails. Great gales of laughter . . . and a jolly staff, despite being harried as guests weren’t leaving their tables – presenting a “juggling act” as folks with reservations arrived! A great spot!


Haven’t yet gotten to Orega . . . still a week to do so.


A lovely dinner at Ociela . . . though my interest in a Mediterranean diet fades quickly when thinking about foie gras at L’Esprit!


Black Ginger closed before I arrived, but I made it to closing night at L’Isola — a well deserved legend in its own time.


La Cantina has been sold, I understand. And the Joel Robuchon restaurant, already under construction behind Galawa in Gustavia, is proceeding as a venue honoring his memory. The restaurant apparently was genuinely an interest of the great chef, & administrators of his estate are planning to complete & open it for the 2019 / 2020 season in respect of his commitment to St. Barths. (A nearby construction, by the way, will be more shops & a casual cafe.)


What else? I’m sure that I’m forgetting something. But, you get the idea — a couple of weeks in a culinary tour de force!


Which brings me to La Gloriette. “Quelle dommage,” as one of my few French expressions goes (“what a pity!”). The news is best described as “mixed.” Out of respect for its owner, a very long time & close friend, I wouldn’t write this note except that it has been very reliably confirmed to me by multiple independent parties. A new operator is coming to the site . . . probably not opening ‘til the 2019 - 2020 season. An American, he already has other commercial interests on the island. The new restaurant’s “concept” seems to be as yet unresolved, but it could be oriented to marketing associated products of the lessee. Bottom line, this iconic “toes in the sand” venue may rise again. And I’ve already booked the deck’s corner table for lunch. See you there . . . the first gimlet’s on me.
 
This is an absolutely wonderful report and like you, I am totally devoted to L'Esprit and many other restaurants mentioned, including Santa Fe and Eddy's, Le Grain de Sel... As I have not yet experienced the reincarnation of certain spots such as SF, La Gloriette (nouvelle version), QG, your report makes me want to fly there immediately! We are next door "neighbors" to La Gloriette (vieille version) when we are at our beloved Le Guanahani hotel, and it was one of our great pleasures to run around the corner, sometimes climbing over the rocks at GCdeS to get over there, sometimes parking in the really terrible parking lot, to make sure we got our LG "fix", not to mention the exquisite rhum vanille, a souvenir that always came home with us (except for that one time when DD forgot and packed it in his carry on so it "wouldn't break"; there were some real tears that day at SXM!!). So many people on the site from the "old" days are so eloquent about the restaurants that they (and we) miss, although we don't go back as far as some. Perhaps La (vieille) Gloriette will become part of that discussion, sadly. But I guess we all have to move on and embrace the new at some point, and islands are the vanguard of change, due to their natural turnover of owners, the weather "insults" such as Irma, the climate, and the growing up of many people who loved their particular "happy place". I raise a rhum vanille and a "pink" version of Veuve Clicquot to all of you on this site who evoke beautiful shared memories and create the anticipation of new ones for our members. Happy Labor Day to all!! DM
 
This is an absolutely wonderful report and like you, I am totally devoted to L'Esprit and many other restaurants mentioned, including Santa Fe and Eddy's, Le Grain de Sel... As I have not yet experienced the reincarnation of certain spots such as SF, La Gloriette (nouvelle version), QG, your report makes me want to fly there immediately! We are next door "neighbors" to La Gloriette (vieille version) when we are at our beloved Le Guanahani hotel, and it was one of our great pleasures to run around the corner, sometimes climbing over the rocks at GCdeS to get over there, sometimes parking in the really terrible parking lot, to make sure we got our LG "fix", not to mention the exquisite rhum vanille, a souvenir that always came home with us (except for that one time when DD forgot and packed it in his carry on so it "wouldn't break"; there were some real tears that day at SXM!!). So many people on the site from the "old" days are so eloquent about the restaurants that they (and we) miss, although we don't go back as far as some. Perhaps La (vieille) Gloriette will become part of that discussion, sadly. But I guess we all have to move on and embrace the new at some point, and islands are the vanguard of change, due to their natural turnover of owners, the weather "insults" such as Irma, the climate, and the growing up of many people who loved their particular "happy place". I raise a rhum vanille and a "pink" version of Veuve Clicquot to all of you on this site who evoke beautiful shared memories and create the anticipation of new ones for our members. Happy Labor Day to all!! DM
 
Dennis..you are a great writer. I am Drooling and I am in agreement about the Dover Sole at Santa Fe and so many other of your culinary highlights. Hope all the vacations go smoothly and we get a relaxed and happy return to form of the well rested staffs. They deserve the break after the year they all put in.
 
Restaurants! What can be said that hasn’t already been covered?


My commitment to lose 20 lbs will have to await another life . . . it’s not a viable goal on SBH when I find such great enjoyment in camaraderie with friends . . . many of whom are owners of the great restaurants that I love.


A very special surprise tonight. As I was going to my table at L’Esprit, a beautiful friend of 15+ years caught my eye: Maryse, the lovely former proprietor of Le Gommier, along the Saline salt pond (subsequently “PaCri” & “Meat & Potatoes”). Dining with Maryse were her husband, beautifully-aged parents, & stunningly pretty daughter, whom I remember holding as an infant. A happy walk down memory lane.


L’Esprit, my “go to” restaurant in the absence of Maya’s (i.e., when Maya’s is open, there’s always a coin toss to choose which special destination). I’ve been eating on the island for over 40 years (the experience could be a book!), so I feel qualified to rhapsodize about the restaurant’s exquisite food, service, staff, and ambiance — a great fit for this “old shoe.” Tonight’s dinner: Foie gras & mussels (petite little critters, arriving this morning from France) in a broth of slivered garlic cloves, coriander, finely diced tomatoes, small bits of sautéed prosciutto, and other spices. No cream, so very light.


Other places during this visit: I drive nearly every morning to Gustavia for a refreshing, healthful breakfast with Sandra Balayn at Cafe Gloriette. It’s not my old office, “La Gloriette” (more about that later), but Sandra’s offerings are personally prepared by her (with occasional help from son Noah) & superb! Her growing following at the restaurant is a warm, gregarious group . . . all of whom reach out to warmly greet me each morning. A classic & “local” SBH community of every age.


“QG” has been in the mix . . . you know about it from much other commentary. I like tables along the entry ramp at lunch.


Le Repaire . . . comfortable & reliable, with good food. Proprietor Eric is straight out of “central casting” — a gentleman of another era, whose manner & courtesy are transcendent.


Three meals (lunch & two dinners, including “closing night”) at Santa Fe. Proprietor David & his great team are another of the island’s particularly memorable dining “forces.” The chef, in anticipating a new “season,” has excelled in refining the menu. Among my favorite first courses, the tomato tarte, much like a Tarte Tatin, is an homage to the inspired tomato tarte offering of Manu, former much-loved proprietor of the restaurant. The Dover Sole is best on the island.


Eddy’s . . . without a doubt, supreme “comfort food,” in one of the most “chill” venues of the island. Closing night there — the evening of the Fete de St. Barthélemy — was packed, with many of us huddled at the back of the restaurant to view the evening’s stunning fireworks at 8 PM.


Le Grain de Sel . . . caught a lunch there before its closing — another “easy life” venue. Great people (clients & staff) & comfortably reliable (notably Creole in flavors), though I recommend that you seek a table near a fan – for air circulation when it’s warm and to ameliorate the cloud sometimes cast by nearby smokers. One fun evening there with a great band.


Another closing luncheon (someone has to do it!) at La Langouste. Benjamin, the much appreciated & missed proprietor, is said to have had successful medical treatment in Paris & — happily — will be returning for a Fall re-opening.


The Eden Rock “pop-up” in Lorient. I’ve previously written about it . . . a great, casual place with simple, straightforward, grilled luncheon items (I couldn’t have a meal there without corn on the cob from the bar-b-que!). I hope that it’ll re-open in mid-October (drumbeat suggests that it will, ‘til December 22).


Villa Marie / Francois Plantation . . . mixed reports, I know. But, I like to go there for its beautiful garden setting at lunch (haven’t yet made it to dinner) & always have a dish of sole in a white wine broth with slivered shiitake mushrooms. It’s pretty special.


Le Jardin, next to Marche U, was a happy destination a couple of times for lunch (exceptional steak tartare) . . . and always serves as a “go to” breakfast spot when I’m looking for fluffy scrambled eggs.


A lunch at Au Regal was only disappointing in the respect that Rosemond Greaux wasn’t there (in his “adult day care center").


The hamburger today at Le Piment was undistinguished, but GREAT frites! The bartenders / waiters also are worthy of memories of the exceptional staff at Hideaway – enthusiastic, smiling, “cool” people who have a mission of bringing you to a calm “space.” It’s impossible to rush here . . . but why would you want to?


Dinner a couple of nights ago at Les Bananiers was a lot of fun — great pizza, as renowned, & delicious duck. What made the evening particularly special, however, was the rain. It poured . . . unabated for hours! As a result, no one got up to leave. There were sleeping infants, others being discretely nursed, and happy adults enjoying multiple refills on wine, beer, and cocktails. Great gales of laughter . . . and a jolly staff, despite being harried as guests weren’t leaving their tables – presenting a “juggling act” as folks with reservations arrived! A great spot!


Haven’t yet gotten to Orega . . . still a week to do so.


A lovely dinner at Ociela . . . though my interest in a Mediterranean diet fades quickly when thinking about foie gras at L’Esprit!


Black Ginger closed before I arrived, but I made it to closing night at L’Isola — a well deserved legend in its own time.


La Cantina has been sold, I understand. And the Joel Robuchon restaurant, already under construction behind Galawa in Gustavia, is proceeding as a venue honoring his memory. The restaurant apparently was genuinely an interest of the great chef, & administrators of his estate are planning to complete & open it for the 2019 / 2020 season in respect of his commitment to St. Barths. (A nearby construction, by the way, will be more shops & a casual cafe.)


What else? I’m sure that I’m forgetting something. But, you get the idea — a couple of weeks in a culinary tour de force!


Which brings me to La Gloriette. “Quelle dommage,” as one of my few French expressions goes (“what a pity!”). The news is best described as “mixed.” Out of respect for its owner, a very long time & close friend, I wouldn’t write this note except that it has been very reliably confirmed to me by multiple independent parties. A new operator is coming to the site . . . probably not opening ‘til the 2019 - 2020 season. An American, he already has other commercial interests on the island. The new restaurant’s “concept” seems to be as yet unresolved, but it could be oriented to marketing associated products of the lessee. Bottom line, this iconic “toes in the sand” venue may rise again. And I’ve already booked the deck’s corner table for lunch. See you there . . . the first gimlet’s on me.


Dennis,

Your reporting comes at a perfect time when SBH is being moved from the back burner to the front after another wild summer season on ACK. While always in our hearts, little time is spent catching up with the goings on of our other favorite island. Your reporting is as always top notch and sets the stage for what to expect in the upcoming winter season. Thanks for sharing. Heading to Maine in the next week. Will be in touch.
 
Restaurants! What can be said that hasn’t already been covered?


My commitment to lose 20 lbs will have to await another life . . . it’s not a viable goal on SBH when I find such great enjoyment in camaraderie with friends . . . many of whom are owners of the great restaurants that I love.


A very special surprise tonight. As I was going to my table at L’Esprit, a beautiful friend of 15+ years caught my eye: Maryse, the lovely former proprietor of Le Gommier, along the Saline salt pond (subsequently “PaCri” & “Meat & Potatoes”). Dining with Maryse were her husband, beautifully-aged parents, & stunningly pretty daughter, whom I remember holding as an infant. A happy walk down memory lane.


L’Esprit, my “go to” restaurant in the absence of Maya’s (i.e., when Maya’s is open, there’s always a coin toss to choose which special destination). I’ve been eating on the island for over 40 years (the experience could be a book!), so I feel qualified to rhapsodize about the restaurant’s exquisite food, service, staff, and ambiance — a great fit for this “old shoe.” Tonight’s dinner: Foie gras & mussels (petite little critters, arriving this morning from France) in a broth of slivered garlic cloves, coriander, finely diced tomatoes, small bits of sautéed prosciutto, and other spices. No cream, so very light.


Other places during this visit: I drive nearly every morning to Gustavia for a refreshing, healthful breakfast with Sandra Balayn at Cafe Gloriette. It’s not my old office, “La Gloriette” (more about that later), but Sandra’s offerings are personally prepared by her (with occasional help from son Noah) & superb! Her growing following at the restaurant is a warm, gregarious group . . . all of whom reach out to warmly greet me each morning. A classic & “local” SBH community of every age.


“QG” has been in the mix . . . you know about it from much other commentary. I like tables along the entry ramp at lunch.


Le Repaire . . . comfortable & reliable, with good food. Proprietor Eric is straight out of “central casting” — a gentleman of another era, whose manner & courtesy are transcendent.


Three meals (lunch & two dinners, including “closing night”) at Santa Fe. Proprietor David & his great team are another of the island’s particularly memorable dining “forces.” The chef, in anticipating a new “season,” has excelled in refining the menu. Among my favorite first courses, the tomato tarte, much like a Tarte Tatin, is an homage to the inspired tomato tarte offering of Manu, former much-loved proprietor of the restaurant. The Dover Sole is best on the island.


Eddy’s . . . without a doubt, supreme “comfort food,” in one of the most “chill” venues of the island. Closing night there — the evening of the Fete de St. Barthélemy — was packed, with many of us huddled at the back of the restaurant to view the evening’s stunning fireworks at 8 PM.


Le Grain de Sel . . . caught a lunch there before its closing — another “easy life” venue. Great people (clients & staff) & comfortably reliable (notably Creole in flavors), though I recommend that you seek a table near a fan – for air circulation when it’s warm and to ameliorate the cloud sometimes cast by nearby smokers. One fun evening there with a great band.


Another closing luncheon (someone has to do it!) at La Langouste. Benjamin, the much appreciated & missed proprietor, is said to have had successful medical treatment in Paris & — happily — will be returning for a Fall re-opening.


The Eden Rock “pop-up” in Lorient. I’ve previously written about it . . . a great, casual place with simple, straightforward, grilled luncheon items (I couldn’t have a meal there without corn on the cob from the bar-b-que!). I hope that it’ll re-open in mid-October (drumbeat suggests that it will, ‘til December 22).


Villa Marie / Francois Plantation . . . mixed reports, I know. But, I like to go there for its beautiful garden setting at lunch (haven’t yet made it to dinner) & always have a dish of sole in a white wine broth with slivered shiitake mushrooms. It’s pretty special.


Le Jardin, next to Marche U, was a happy destination a couple of times for lunch (exceptional steak tartare) . . . and always serves as a “go to” breakfast spot when I’m looking for fluffy scrambled eggs.


A lunch at Au Regal was only disappointing in the respect that Rosemond Greaux wasn’t there (in his “adult day care center").


The hamburger today at Le Piment was undistinguished, but GREAT frites! The bartenders / waiters also are worthy of memories of the exceptional staff at Hideaway – enthusiastic, smiling, “cool” people who have a mission of bringing you to a calm “space.” It’s impossible to rush here . . . but why would you want to?


Dinner a couple of nights ago at Les Bananiers was a lot of fun — great pizza, as renowned, & delicious duck. What made the evening particularly special, however, was the rain. It poured . . . unabated for hours! As a result, no one got up to leave. There were sleeping infants, others being discretely nursed, and happy adults enjoying multiple refills on wine, beer, and cocktails. Great gales of laughter . . . and a jolly staff, despite being harried as guests weren’t leaving their tables – presenting a “juggling act” as folks with reservations arrived! A great spot!


Haven’t yet gotten to Orega . . . still a week to do so.


A lovely dinner at Ociela . . . though my interest in a Mediterranean diet fades quickly when thinking about foie gras at L’Esprit!


Black Ginger closed before I arrived, but I made it to closing night at L’Isola — a well deserved legend in its own time.


La Cantina has been sold, I understand. And the Joel Robuchon restaurant, already under construction behind Galawa in Gustavia, is proceeding as a venue honoring his memory. The restaurant apparently was genuinely an interest of the great chef, & administrators of his estate are planning to complete & open it for the 2019 / 2020 season in respect of his commitment to St. Barths. (A nearby construction, by the way, will be more shops & a casual cafe.)


What else? I’m sure that I’m forgetting something. But, you get the idea — a couple of weeks in a culinary tour de force!


Which brings me to La Gloriette. “Quelle dommage,” as one of my few French expressions goes (“what a pity!”). The news is best described as “mixed.” Out of respect for its owner, a very long time & close friend, I wouldn’t write this note except that it has been very reliably confirmed to me by multiple independent parties. A new operator is coming to the site . . . probably not opening ‘til the 2019 - 2020 season. An American, he already has other commercial interests on the island. The new restaurant’s “concept” seems to be as yet unresolved, but it could be oriented to marketing associated products of the lessee. Bottom line, this iconic “toes in the sand” venue may rise again. And I’ve already booked the deck’s corner table for lunch. See you there . . . the first gimlet’s on me.

Jims first gimlet was there with you in september 2017, right before the storm. Hope that is true
 
Jims first gimlet was there with you in september 2017, right before the storm. Hope that is true
I remember it well . . . Jim's eyes lit up with his first taste! Among the very last luncheons served at La Gloriette!
 
Dennis

Did Maryse say if she still plans to stay retired from the restaurant business (this as she told us was the reason she closed the absolutely wonderful Meat and Potatoes) or he'll be going back to open something new and as always, great?
 
Maryse wasn’t associated with Meat & Potatoes, Leon. She now runs a Bn’B, “Fleur de Lune,” which is just a stone’s throw past the former restaurant.
 
Dennis,
Always love reading your reports! For me personally the only thing missing is lunch at Le Bouchon! As you can see by my avatar
 
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