Montserrat… February 4th – 8th, 2014
After sending a week sailing around the BVI’s Lisa and I relaxed at my friend’s home in Antigua for a few days. He just built this two bedroom two bath cliff side pool home earlier this year. It overlooks a beautiful crescent moon shaped beach; the sand is so white it is near blinding.
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It was all we could do to pack up for our trip to Montserrat. I have had the island on my bucket list for many years. It was about to get scratched off.
Lisa and I flew from Antigua to Montserrat on “Fly Montserrat” airway. About $200 round trip per person from Antigua.
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Flying in we could clearly see the "new land" courtesy of the volcano.
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The Montserrat airport is very small, clean, and friendly people. For the first time ever I had my bags searched by customs immigration people. They were friendly, but all business. He unzipped my roll-aboard and pretty much moved everything around. Not sure why he decided to check the bag out, but it only took 2 minutes and off I went. Our villa owner, Clover, was waiting at the exit door. Her family owns a place called Gingerbread Hill. Basically it is a 3 story home that has a separate “villa” on each floor. We had the 2nd floor, a great sunset view for sure. Each villa has a different view so their patios are private.
If you want to drive on the island you must get a local driver’s license ($20.). Clover suggested I obtain the license right there at the airport, so I filled out the papers and received a license to drive. Oh boy, left side of the road driving for the first time for me!
On the way to the villa Clover showed us many interesting places that would help us during our stay. Grocery stores, restaurants, general stores, you name it Clover showed it to us. By the time we arrived at our place I knew where to find just about everything.
On the ride from the airport Clover pulled over in front of a restaurant, The Peoples Place, and yelled out to no one in particular “You got chicken?” A guy poked his head out the front door and answered back what was on the evening menu. Lisa and I ended up back there later and pick up dinner to go. I had chicken roti that was to die for. Full of chicken, veggies, potatoes and just the right amount of curry. I quickly became friends with John, the owner. Seems like everybody stops there to pick up dinner. The place only had 2 or 3 tables inside but most people were doing take away. John was friendly and a wealth of information.
John, the owner of The Peoples Place restaurant and his dining room....
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We had our dinner at the villa. The grilled chicken was delicious. I had never had roti before and am now a big fan. I had never driven on the left side of the road so we elected not to drive after dark until I spent some time behind the wheel. I can say by the end of the next day, I was driving like a local.
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The villa is pretty cool. The home is old but well taken care of. Our place takes up the entire second floor. The side facing the west is wide open and the view is fantastic, and the sunset is beautiful. Very breezy with a great sea view from the open layout. We have a huge patio dining area. No one looking into our space is nice too.
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The next day we had scheduled an inland tour with a guide, Sunny, who also happens to be Clover’s son. He showed up right on time, 10am, and we spent nearly the entire day with him touring island and learning just about anything you would ever want to know about Montserrat. Most visitors are focused on the volcano area, which we did get a look at, but I was more interested in the “alive” side of the island.
Montserrat’s Soufriere Hills volcano came alive back in 1995, and it has erupted on and off pretty much ever since. In 1997 it suddenly and unexpectedly erupted killing 19 people. It has been quite now for about 4 years. After the initial eruption, nearly 2/3’s of the residents left the island and have yet to returned. The main capital was covered in 20+ feet of ash, and nearly half of the island is now an “exclusion zone” and very much off limits. Lucky for us we know a guy that knows a guy, and received permission to enter a certain area that would give us an interesting glimpse inside the exclusion zone.
The pictures do not really convey the devastation. The entire city of Plymouth was wiped out. All the areas around Plymouth were covered with ash, in some areas the ash is over 30 feet deep. It is sad to look at.
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Our tour was fantastic. Sunny covered the entire inland. I’m pretty sure I met every resident on the island. I fell in love with a home that is for sale. Two bedrooms, one bath, fully furnished, private, a huge pool with an ocean and volcano view; $185,000…. By the end of our trip I was ready fly home and pack up my things.
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The island is very green. The island is covered with lush vegetation, well paved roads, and my favorite; no motor scooters. None. I don’t think I saw one scooter. It was so quite. I love St. Barts, but the scooters really can ruin a nice dinner in Gustavia. The speed limit is posted at 20mph, and nearly everyone does at or near 20mph. Everybody waves at everybody. Drivers blow their car horn when they pass someone they know. By the time our visit was over I was waving at people all the time, because they were waving at me! People I met in restaurants or the grocery store were suddenly like old friends. I must admit, it was a little weird.
On our second evening we had dinner at Tina’s Place. It had been suggested to us by several people. Nearly every restaurant is small, with only a few tables. Most all have a table or two outside. I had a lobster sandwich, it was ok. Lisa had a shrimp salad. 3 shrimp, lots of salad. Dinner and a few glasses of wine, $25. Can’t beat that for sure…. I know we will fine THE place to eat before we leave.
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Originally Posted by MartinS
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