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Naples is a city with vast multitudes and everyone has a racket. We edged away from the port and found a taxi near the opera house, the famed Teatro San Carlo, where once, many years ago we saw the great ballerina Carla Fracci dance the title role in “La Peri,” a masterpiece of 19th century Romanticism. In Italian I asked the taxi driver how much he wanted to take us to the Museo di Capodimonte, the city’s leading art museum. He told me 15 Euros, but while he drove the long distance to the large park, Jim noticed a card in the back seat of the cab that listed our drive as costing 11 Euros. So that’s what Jim handed the taxi driver when we got out. He was surprised but I mentioned the list price and he shrugged. That’s the way things are in the third largest city in Italy. The Capodimonte museum is famed for three things: it’s one of the largest royal palaces in Italy; it was also the site of a porcelain factory in the 18th century; and it houses some of the finest art in the city.

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