La Rioja
Rioja wine region is some 600 km north from Barcelona, almost on the Atlantic coast of Spain. It's also on the border between Basque country and rest of Spain.
On our way up north we saw the Greenwich meridian, the zero longitude for coordinates. I never realized it was so clearly marked
Spain had excellent motorways and at least during a working day, relatively little traffic. Superb driving everywhere, exemplary signs and returning the rental car to the Barcelona airport was one of the easiest we've seen.
We were staying in Hotel Viura, another new, small design hotel in a small town of Villanueva de Álava. The deals we managed to get with all our accommodations were just great, superb price/quality ratio.
When we checked in, the front desk guy recommended that we book the winery tours the next morning as especially the english ones are quite difficult to get. "They are not prepared for us", he said. We were wondering what he meant.
We didn't really want to do much winery tours as they all look the same. Visiting the stores, the public spaces, tasting rooms and restaurants would be plenty enough, we thought. Lunch with the wines, what would be better way to taste their offerings but with the matching local foods?
We had no special wineries in mind, Rioja wines are pretty solid performers. We got some excellent borchures from the hotel and I had Air Canada's "Top 5 Design Wineries in La Rioja" article.
La Rioja is a beautiful area with small medieval villages on hills surrounded by vineyards and mountains. I believe Laguardia is the main village in the area (excluding the larger cities).
We had dinner in Laguardia on the second night and all of the village was having a fiesta, not San Juan as in Barcelona a few days earlier but another one. Religion, what a great excuse for celebrations. The local teenagers had a samba band playing.
We decided to start with Bodegas Ysios. We had never heard of them but they must be something special with such a building, right?
The front door was locked so we didn't get in. Nice area, though.
Bodega Antion looked nice and it looked like it had a small hotel as well. Not so fast. Both the front and rear entrances were blocked with chains. Nothing was happening here.
Our third stop was the famous Marqués de Riscal. It's also a Starwood hotel property so it must be a great place for a lunch.
Well.. you can't really drive to the place itself. The visitor parking is further away and there's a guard to the actual building. All the gates are locked and there is a smaller building with a shop and tasting room.
At least we finally managed to get ourselves a glass of local wine. I stole some peanuts from another table.
Next stop was Bodegas Baigorri with a beautiful elevated glass building, views to die for across the vineyards.
Like most other places, the signs say that the place is open from 10 to 18 and there are tours at 11, 13 and 15 by appointment only. Well, guess if the door was open?
Ok, no problem. Next stop is Bodega Viña Real. Why not, these wine tours are happening pretty fast this way.
Damn, the road to the winery is cut with a chain. Laura stops the car and I start walking to the front yard. If nothing else, I should at least get a good picture of the building. A guard yells at me and tells me not to take any photos.
Now we know what "they are not prepared for us" means.
Seriously, I don't get it. Why do these people build these amazing landmark buildings and sites and don't let people in? Where are all the cafes, restaurants, shops and other small facilities to build the brand with random visitors? A lot of people drive from the other countries to Spain and could bring back home boxes of wines very easily.
I can understand that they may prefer to have bookings for winery visits but it shouldn't mean that everything is locked rest of the day. We've had random visits and lunches in all the other wine regions and countries and dropping by without an agreement has never been a problem. In Rioja (Spain in general?) the winery visits probably work fine if you book everything in advance for a strict tour but that's like traveling in a tourist bus with a set program.
Our best winery visits were in Chile where we met the winery owner/winemaker, took some bottles of wine and coolers filled with local cheeses and other food, walked to a small sun deck next to the vineyards and set up a picnic -- chatting, drinking, eating, and looking at the wine growing. These folks could have at least have a terrace with tables so that people could have picnic of their own -- with the wines and food from the winery's shop.
It would have been better idea to skip La Rioja and spend these days on the Mediterranean coast.
We did buy a bottle of wine to bring home, though. Ysios 2005 was 18 euros at the supermarket and expensive compared to all the other 3-6 euro wines (it was actually quite funny to see wines that cost less than an euro a bottle). Such a landmark building and wine that costs several times more than the average, it must be good, right? We'll see.
On our way from the Pyrenees to Barcelona, we stopped by in Vilafranca del Penedes to visit the Torres winery. Bodegas Torres is the largest winery in Spain and has operations around the world -- if anyone, they must have excellent visitor facilities.
They were just locking the door when we arrived and we couldn't see any shop, lunch restaurant or anything open. We ended up having a lunch in a small neighborhood street corner diner in the town, next to the passing motorway.