shihadehs
Senior Insider
Before we left the island, I checked our bank account and we are still not billionaires. Even so, we have somehow been able to navigate around St. Barts, find our spots and have enjoyed this most recent visit as much as ever.
Having first traveled to the island in 1985 (and making it a mostly annual trip since then) we have witnessed lots of progress and tons of change. From the time of our very first trip we have heard people wishing for “the old St. Bart’s”. I guess they are yearning for the things they liked on their first trip, but as we all know, life generally moves forward and so has St. Barts.
There are so many things to like about the “new St. Bart’s”
- Great infrastructure (looking at you, US) - roads, sidewalks, fiber optic cable being dragged everywhere, power lines underground, well-marked road signs, etc.
- Islanders are very nice and welcoming
- Wonderful grocery options
- First world shopping choices (super high end all the way to tee shirt shops)
- Gas pump screens in four languages and no crazy PIN # requirement at night
- A wide array of restaurant and takeout choices where the quality of food is amazing and consistent around the island
- Easy in/Easy out airport
- The Euro may have been the best we have ever had (+/- 1.08…thank you Vlad)
So of course, with all that good comes some not as good. Prices have gone up. Some waiters try to jam you for tips (in the really old St. Bart’s tips were considered a no-no since “service compris” was [and is still] included in the charge for the food). With the influx of so many Americans where “service” is not included and we usually tip 20% +/- , many waiters try to goad you into that. We generally tip 10% +/- and at the places we like to go, they always seems appreciative.
Where to go? The restaurant scene is still pretty amazing and generally food, service and setting are great everywhere. So many choices but here is how we break it down.
“Investor Owned”* – Bonito, Bagatelle, Cheval, Eden Rock, Tamarin, etc. All have great food, great service and the best dressed clientele. We don’t go to many of these places. Generally the feel rushed, over-priced and typically packed.
“Owner Operated”* - The meals are great, the food feels fairly priced and the owner is proud of their product and you get to know them and enjoy a relaxed meal. Our best meals in this group were at:
- Bar de L'oubli
- BAZ Bar
- Eddy’s
- Langouste
- Le Toiny (I know it is investor-owned but they feel more like they belong in this segment)
- Les Bananiers
- Lil’ Rock
- L’Esprit
- Santa Fe
- Ti’ Corail
- Zion
And then a bunch of interesting local places for casual meals or a beverage.
We flew to San Juan and then took Tradewind in and out of SBH. Their service is amazing and the flight experience is the perfect way to arrive or depart from St. Bart’s. On our hike the last morning we got a reminder of how exciting the landing in St. Bart’s can be when the pilot of a small Piper aircraft came in way too high and had to descend way too fast and broke his right strut and then the left and landed hard. Everyone was ok but it shut things down for a while.
We always rent a car from Avis and have consistently found them fair and easy to do business with…never any problems. The roads are so much less frightening than they used to be and while the taxis are generally first class they are not plentiful or timely. No Uber in St. Bart’s so we say just get a car and enjoy the scenery.
So repeating our normal mantra on St. Bart’s, “it was one of our best visits ever, we know of no other place that comes close for us and we booked for next year”.
*Some smart reader is going to point out that I have miscategorized some restaurants (e.g. Investor or Owner - owned) but I am doing it more on how they feel (e.g. “Owner Operator” feels like there is person in charge who acts like his/her name is on the front door [how Maya’s was, how L’Esprit and Santa Fe are] versus the much more corporate attitude of a place that tries to work you for every dollar, packs you in and hurries you thru the meal.
. Thanks!
