LA Times 1991

beans or no beans :D

value, it’s hard to beat the cozy Le Flamboyant, with its terrace dining room overlooking the bay at Grand Cul-de-Sac. Born in France’s Rhone Valley, proprietor Albert Balayn adapts traditional country French cooking to a lightness demanded by the tropical climate. Locally caught merou (grouper), for example, is served sashimi style with lime juice and fresh herbs. Rosy lamb medallions are bolstered by a delicate basil cream. The house specialty is cassoulet de langouste (spiny lobster cassoulet). Balayn offers a 160-franc ($32) prix fixe menu that includes appetizer, main course and dessert.
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The food doesn't seem like huge price increase for THIRTY YEARS. $200 for dinner nearly four decades ago ? I can get a Club Sandwhich for maybe 5 dollars more right now and chicken salad for less than $39.
 
The whole article is deserving of a post in the clear. I remember almost all of these places and some are still in business!

Hints for Trimming Dinner Costs on St. Bart’s

[FONT=var(--service-font)]BY STEVEN RAICHLEN
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OCT. 20, 1991 12 AM PT
[FONT=var(--service-font)]RAICHLEN IS A MIAMI FREE-LANCE WRITER, DIRECTOR OF COOKING AT PARADISE, A COOKING SCHOOL ON ST. BART'S</I> ,<I> AND AUTHOR OF FIVE COOKBOOKS.
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[FONT=var(--body-font)][FONT=var(--service-font)]ST. BARTHELEMY, West Indies —[/FONT]Most people go to St. Bart’s for sun worshiping and water sports. I go there to eat.

Nowhere else in the Caribbean are there so many fine restaurants squeezed into such a narrow space. The tiny French island--14 square miles of beautiful beaches and vertiginous hills--is home to more than 80 eating places. Not bad for an island with a year-round population of 5,043.
Some are perched on mountain tops; others are built on the beach. But all offer the flavor of France in a dazzling Caribbean setting.

That’s the good news. But there is bad. Everything you’ve heard about the high cost of dining on St. Bart’s is true: the $12 pizzas, the $15 club sandwiches, the $39 chicken salad at the oh-so-chic seaside eatery Taiwana. Lunch for two with wine at a respectable restaurant will run $80 to $100. Nothing comes cheap here, not even hotel rooms that command $300 a night in high season, with villas as much as $10,000 a week. Some of the meal costs are justified, since virtually all food on the island must be shipped from North America or flown in weekly from France.
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[/FONT][FONT=var(--body-font)]Money is no object for the moguls and movie stars who have made this tiny island their winter home. Meryl Streep, Steve Martin, Christie Brinkley, Billy Joel and Mikhail Baryshnikov--who owns a villa on the Morne Lurin (a fashionable hillside area)--are among those who spend time here. The trick for the rest of us mortals is, then, how do we prevent starvation without taking out a second mortgage on our homes? Fortunately, while a few restaurants have raised highway robbery to an art form, a good many offer reasonable value and some could almost be called a bargain. I said almost .
Consider the famous ( infamous might be more apt) Eddy’s Ghetto, which sits under a thatched roof in a courtyard in downtown Gustavia, capital of St. Bart’s. Named for Eddy Stakelborough--a local character whose dad owns Le Select (the island’s most boisterous bar)--this funky eatery has something for everyone: live music, an equally lively atmosphere, huge portions of such homey dishes as soupe de giraumon (West Indian pumpkin soup), grilled whole snapper, creme caramel and homemade tarts. And two can enjoy a full meal with beer for $50. (See what I mean? Even the cheap places here are expensive.) Amid the island’s gastronomic pretension, the Ghetto’s down-to-earth informality is as refreshing as an ocean breeze on a sunburn.

For value, it’s hard to beat the cozy Le Flamboyant, with its terrace dining room overlooking the bay at Grand Cul-de-Sac. Born in France’s Rhone Valley, proprietor Albert Balayn adapts traditional country French cooking to a lightness demanded by the tropical climate. Locally caught merou (grouper), for example, is served sashimi style with lime juice and fresh herbs. Rosy lamb medallions are bolstered by a delicate basil cream. The house specialty is cassoulet de langouste (spiny lobster cassoulet). Balayn offers a 160-franc ($32) prix fixe menu that includes appetizer, main course and dessert.
Many people believe that seafood should be enjoyed within sight of water. Among them is Michel Ledee, owner of the Marigot Bay Club, which is built on a wisp of beach on a tiny mast-studded bay. A fisherman by day, Ledee plies his guests with snapper, grouper and other local fish served within hours of landing. The langouste Creole (lobster with Creole sauce) is simply the best on the island. Round out the meal with accras (spicy salt cod fritters) and a shimmering coconut flan. The open-air dining room, with its butcher-block tables and deck chairs, runs right to the water’s edge. Dinner for two with wine will cost $80 to $100.

Another local fisherman owns one of last season’s most talked-about restaurants: La Saintoise. The term Saintoise refers to a woman from the tiny Ile des Saints off the coast of Guadaloupe. The Saintoise in question here, Marie-Josephe Peters, specializes in that hybrid of French and Caribbean cookery known as la cuisine Creole. Lambi farcie (buttery stuffed conch) is served in a conch shell. Lobster comes in a herb-studded fricassee--an excellent way to keep this inherently dry shellfish moist. Desserts range from finger banana tart to tourment d’amour , a Saintoise coconut cake whose name means “torment of love.” Guests are served on a candlelighted terrace perfumed by nearby jasmine and frangipani trees. The service can be slow. Dinner for two will run $60 (no credit cards accepted).

For lunch, St. Bart’s boasts dozens of laid-back beachfront eateries. One of my favorites is the aptly named Lagon Bleu, at the Serano Beach Hotel. The meal begins with a free dish of garlicky lentils and ends with a complimentary rum punch. In between, there are smoky grilled kebabs, main course salads with names evoking faraway places such as “Mykanos” (goat cheese, peppers, mushrooms and tomatoes) and homemade plates du jour. Don’t miss the tarte tropezienne (a sort of French Boston cream pie) for dessert. As you dine, you can watch legions of windsurfers ply the azure waters of the bay. Lunch for two will be $30 to $50.

Those who can afford it and want to experience St. Bart’s dining at its best should try La Toque Lyonnaise at the El Serano Beach Hotel. Chef Andre Chenu trained with such culinary giants as Michel Guerard and Joel Robuchon. His soaring imagination is guided by an almost Greek classicism and a surgically precise culinary technique. Green peppercorns and Asian seasonings grace a salad of home-smoked monkfish. Chicken, foie gras and mashed potatoes are formed into an ingenious, elegant remake of shepherd’s pie. Croquant a la mangue (mango napoleon) is the sort of dessert that inspires dreams. The clean white dining room, with its high ceilings, tropical paintings and poolside setting, makes the perfect foil for Chenu’s food. The most economical way to dine here is the three-course tasting menu, which costs $48 per person.

More traditional but no less elegant is Castelets, an expensive restaurant that clings to a mountainside overlooking most of the island. Decked out in white stucco and dark hardwood trim, leather and wrought iron, this tiny hotel has the air of a Castilian manor. The cooking of Marseilles-born chef Michel Viali is thoroughly French, however. A splash of the anise-flavored aperitif Ricard gives a Mediterranean accent to sauteed medallions of lobster. Sour cherries are served with pan-fried foie gras. Dinner here is an all-night ritual presided over by Castelets’ gracious owner, Genevieve Jouany. At lunch, you can take in the spectacular panoramic views of the neighboring islands and ocean that stretches to St. Martin and beyond. Figure on $150 to $200 for two.

The Wall House is a newcomer to St. Bart’s restaurant scene, but to judge from a recent meal there, it is worth a visit. Chef Jean-Pierre Delage works wonders with lamb and seafood. Salmon, for example, is cured in saltwater in the Tahitian manner. Salt-baked lamb tenderloin is sweetly scented with rosemary. Apple sorbet and a towering apple souffle accompany a caramelized Granny Smith tart. White tiles, white tablecloths and white rattan furnishings are accented by Balinese paintings and harbor views in this restaurant located next to the black stone walls of the old Swedish fort guarding Gustavia--thus the name Wall House. Dinner for two runs $150 to $200.

Fortunately for those of us with more appetite than money, several inexpensive lunch spots have sprung up in Gustavia during the past year: Canelle and the Cactus Cafe are among them. Canelle is an upscale snack bar where it is possible to nibble freshly fried crepes, a succulent red pepper tart or a sandwich on a homemade baguette. The Cactus Cafe is a harbor-side cafe specializing in vegetarian quiche, freshly squeezed fruit juice and a buttery cake called far breton.
One hardly thinks of the Caribbean as a destination for pizza, but the wood-burning ovens of Topolino and L’Escale turn out such glorious pizzas that you won’t mind shelling out upwards of $10 for one.

The locals prefer the greasy hamburgers at Jojo Burger, the island’s cheapest eatery and gathering place for a large collection of noisy motorbikes.

By far the best way to keep food costs in line on St. Bart’s is to picnic. This isn’t a bad option, considering the growing number of supermarkets and wonderful carry-out shops. After all, you’re in France: the cheese is unpasteurized, the cold cuts are charcuterie and the baguettes and croissants are baked daily, using French flour and butter.

Perfect for picnics, St. Bart’s has more than a dozen beaches for staging the perfect event. I’m apt to spread my blanket at Gouverneur or Colombiers. The latter is a secluded spot accessible only by foot or boat.
Stock up on cheese and meat at Le Gourmet Shop and Unic Plus, across the street from the airport; bread and pastry at the Boulangerie Choisy in Gustavia. For roast chicken, freshly baked fruit tarts and other treats, try Taste Unlimited and the Rotisserie Hediard, both in downtown Gustavia.

A few final tips for stretching your dining dollars: Tap water is safe to drink on St. Bart’s. (The French phrase for tap water is l’eau de robinet.) If you order mineral water, you’ll pay $4 to $7 a bottle. At most restaurants on St. Bart’s, service is included in the price of the meal.

GUIDEBOOK
Finding Food on St. Bart’s
Eddy’s Ghetto, off the Rue du General de Gaulle, in Gustavia; no phone.
Le Flamboyant, in area called Grand Cul de Sac (at eastern end of island); local telephone 27-75-65.
Marigot Bay Club, in area called Marigot Bay (at eastern end of island); 27-75-45.
La Saintoise, on Route de Lurin (hillside area north of Gustavia); 27-66-83.
Serano Beach Hotel, Grand Cul de Sac; 27-64-80.
La Toque Lyonnaise, at the El Serano Beach Hotel, Grand Cul de Sac; 27-64-80.
Castelets, Route de Lurin; 27-61-73.
The Wall House, in area called La Pointe in Gustavia; 27-71-83.
Canelle, Rue du General Charles de Gaulle, Gustavia; 27-86-03.
The Cactus Cafe, Rue du Bord de Mer, Gustavia; 27-69-99.
Topolino, in area called St. Jean (near airport); 27-70-92.
L’Escale, Rue Jeanne d’Arc, Gustavia; 27-70-33.
Jojo Burger, in Lorient (in middle of island); no phone.




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unless I am mistaken, the only places on this list that still exist with the same name is Eddy's, JoJo Burger, and Le Sereno (but probably different owners since then?)

GUIDEBOOK
Finding Food on St. Bart’s
Eddy’s Ghetto, off the Rue du General de Gaulle, in Gustavia; no phone.
Le Flamboyant, in area called Grand Cul de Sac (at eastern end of island); local telephone 27-75-65.
Marigot Bay Club, in area called Marigot Bay (at eastern end of island); 27-75-45.
La Saintoise, on Route de Lurin (hillside area north of Gustavia); 27-66-83.
Serano Beach Hotel, Grand Cul de Sac; 27-64-80.
La Toque Lyonnaise, at the El Serano Beach Hotel, Grand Cul de Sac; 27-64-80.
Castelets, Route de Lurin; 27-61-73.
The Wall House, in area called La Pointe in Gustavia; 27-71-83.
Canelle, Rue du General Charles de Gaulle, Gustavia; 27-86-03.
The Cactus Cafe, Rue du Bord de Mer, Gustavia; 27-69-99.
Topolino, in area called St. Jean (near airport); 27-70-92.
L’Escale, Rue Jeanne d’Arc, Gustavia; 27-70-33.
Jojo Burger, in Lorient (in middle of island); no phone.
 
La Saintoise, where was it in Lurin ? where Santa Fe is or ? Interesting read to start my day, thanks for posting !
 
NancySC said:
La Saintoise, where was it in Lurin ? where Santa Fe is or ? Interesting read to start my day, thanks for posting !
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No, Santa Fe has always been Santa Fe, the name comes with the building.

La Santoise was on the porch of a private home, with about a dozen or so tables and Creole-based cuisine. If you are heading from Santa Fe toward Gustavia on the road in Lurn, the house is on the right and has an upper patio where the restaurant was... it may be the house where Laurent Peter now sells fish but not 100% sure on that...
 
elgreaux said:
No, Santa Fe has always been Santa Fe, the name comes with the building.

La Santoise was on the porch of a private home, with about a dozen or so tables and Creole-based cuisine. If you are heading from Santa Fe toward Gustavia on the road in Lurn, the house is on the right and has an upper patio where the restaurant was... it may be the house where Laurent Peter now sells fish but not 100% sure on that...
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Thanks Ellen, I know that house since very close to our last rental villa almost across the road.
 
TR561 said:
The food doesn't seem like huge price increase for THIRTY YEARS. $200 for dinner nearly four decades ago ? I can get a Club Sandwhich for maybe 5 dollars more right now and chicken salad for less than $39.
Click to expand...

Correct I have yet to see chicken salad for $39 &#55358;&#56611; but the hotel costs are what gave me pause !!
 
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