The Insiders' Guide to St. Barths: Les Saintes and Guadeloupe

After hearing for the last few years that Les Saintes is the St. Bart of 20 years ago, this St. Bart Fan and his partnerfinally had the opportunity to visit during Thanksgiving week.

We have been traveling to St. Bart for only 10 years, so I cannot comment on 20 years ago. But I can imagine Les Saintes being very similar to St. Bart before it was on the "map". It was like stepping back in time, to a Caribbean that was not overrun with tourists and luxury hotels.

We wanted to travel during Thanksgiving and use miles, as this is in addtion to our January trip to St.Bart. We were able to book a flight New York to Montreal to Guadeloupe. An overnight at the Montreal airport was required. (I believe American flies to Guadeloupe from San Juan). There is only one flight a week, on Saturdays.

The first three nights were spent on Guadeloupe, which I believe Karibien has been covering. Briefly.....we stayed at the Meridien in St. Francois....very nice suite....fantastic pool...enjoyed walking around. We rented a car one day, and went to three beaches...all beautiful...very impressed. We ate at small restaurants (similar to Andy's). Three great days.

We had an early morning flight (8:30) for the 15 minute flight from Guadeloupe to Les Saintes. It did not start well. We were the only two waiting for the plane (Air Caraibes). They kept on telling us different stories that the flight was delayed. It was actually cancelled, and we were at the airport until we were put on a 1:00 flight to Marie Galante. They stopped on Les Saintes for us. The plane had 8 seats, very small.

We arrived and the airport attendent called our hotel (Auberge Les Saintes) for us, they were there in 5 minutes. We had booked a room with a seaview. We were taken to a dark, room without a view. I mentioned I was expecting a sea view room. They said the Didier, the owner, would be back at 5 and would let us know what could be done. We went for a walk in town. I was not in a great mood at that point, and the town did not appeal to me. We came back to the hotel and we were put into a Suite with a wonderful sea view, and we would be switched to another room the following day. My attitude picked up, and the start of a great 4 days, with fantatic weather, began.

The hotel is very quirky, and you can see if you go to their website. The rooms are small but interesting. (There are about 10 rooms.) Everyone at the hotel was French, except us. It also has what is considered the best restaurant on the island, and it was excellent.

There are no rental cars on the island. You can rent motor scooters, or walk everywhere. We chose to walk. The island is smaller than St. Bart, only 5 square miles. The main road in town has very little traffic. It has alot of very small restaurants, serving mostly local fish, at very reasonable prices. Most overlook the harbor, which is very nice, dotted with boats. There are also some boutiques, artisans, and stores for local needs. It is really a small fishing village. It is the only town on the island. There are two "town squares", one on the harbour, the other a small park. It is delightful walking through the town. One afternoon on our way back from the beach, an elderly couple had just backed brioche and pain au chocolate, which they sold in front of their home on the main street. It was fresh from the oven and as good as anything you may get in St. Bart or Paris.

Les Saintes if a very beautiful island with many coves with small beaches. The best beach is Pompierre, a beach with very calm, clear, warm waters. It is lined with trees. There is a small island to which you can swim for beautiful views. We went to this beach twice. The first time we walked through town, about 30 minutes from the hotel. Other guests at the hotel told us about a hiking trail to the beach, that was a strenuous and would take about 1 1/2 hours. It was strenuous, but well worth it. There were probably 10 or more vistas that took our breath away. The goal, the beach, was welcome.

We stopped at some other beaches, including Grand Anse at the airport, and the "nude" beach, Anse Craven. Both are not groomed, Anse Craven was small, but with great water and views.

All of the walks were delightful. There were many goats on the island, some penned and some walking around. We also found an elderly woman who had two pet geese...who told them to stop bothering us.

We had three dinners at our hotel, all delicious. Tuna Tataki was fresh and refreshing, grilled lobster (as good as La Langouste, if not better, and less expensive), a fish pate, house made deserts, fresh local fish. The menu was limited but always good. Every morning there were freshly made baked goods.

This trip report was meant to be brief, and I did not cover half of my impressions. We will be posting photos.

Les Saintes is not St. Bart.....it is an island with its own atmosphere and pace. Much simplier and quieter, taking you back to a different time. It is a experience all its own, one that we hope to have again.

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