Other Places: Europe >> France

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Cheri



Reged: 10/13/02
Posts: 1689
Loc: St. Louis, Missouri
Cote D'Azure
      #6370 - 07/31/03 11:19 AM

We are planning a trip to France (Paris and then on to the French Riviera) in September. We are trying to decide whether to stay in Nice or Cannes while there. I realize the two are not very far apart but which one would provide the easiest accessibility to the other points of interest. Is Nice going to be traffic clogged and hard to get in and out of? Would Cannes be a better home base and provide a more relaxing atmosphere at night for dinners out or for beaching it if we decide to do that (I understand the beaches in Canne aren't as rocky)? Any advice would be much appreciated.

Cheri


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Lauren



Reged: 10/10/02
Posts: 1332
Re: Cote d'Azur new [Re: Cheri]
      #6380 - 07/31/03 03:15 PM

Hi Cheri,
The CÙte d'Azur certainly presents different scenarios.
Nice is a large, sprawling city that has a lot of commerce, a quaint old section with wonderful shops and a great deal of traffic. It benefits in its proximity to Monaco, Cap Ferrat, Juans les Pins, Antibes, etc. Also the hinterland behind Nice in the hills, with perfumed fields, Grasse the perfume town, the villages pÈrchÈ of St Paul de Vence, Eze and other Med ports of reknown. Although convenient and inhabited by those who like the feel of a real French town, it may not be what you would pick for a first trip to the area. If you decide to stay there, it will be a "city" vacation, and as such, seek out a good, probably at least a three star hotel. The HÙtel Windsor is excellent for the price and in a safe, calm, quiet area. Then there are the classic old hotels.

Cannes does have a lot of American visitors, due to its modernity, and nice hotels along the quai, as well as the history of British vacationers. Famous for the Film Festival, the Casinos, and cleanliness. It even has a real town backing it to the hills, where one can become entranced with the everyday life of French citizens as well as those "en retrait", or retired. It is pleasant and safe. There is an old town and fort, a cobbled rue that rises gently over several blocks with restaurants avec terrasse on either side (did I mention that these thirty or fourty restaurants are all right next to each other and the unfortunate diner has the onerous task of choosing, which is trËs difficile?) Offshore are several islands, each with an interesting genealogy, available for the cost of a boat trip (...the man in the iron mask comes to mind...) Perhaps take a sail....the options, the options...
For HÙtels, there are the great Cannes choices. Some prefer the old massive Belle Epoque style hotels that made the area famous. Then there are the modern hotels such as the Hilton, the HÙtel Sofitel. Beyond this, review the three star hotels on the adjoining streets behind the main quai. Another choice would be a "residence" similar to an apartment, with a cuisine.....
There are other venues along the coast and hÙtels aplenty, from one star to five stars. Southeast of Cannes, drive the coast, the volcanic cliffs of the Esterel, up and down the hills through many a pretty beach and fishing village.
You may also wish to consider spending some time (although I do not know how much time you will have available for the south of France), visiting the Ramatuelle/St.Tropez/Gigaro region. St Tropez seems a necessitÈ. Although completely rebuilt after the war, it is still interesting, albeit very crowded with tourists, poseurs and traffic at various times. I would obtain lodging out of the town, as there are many other places away from the madding crowd and in the hills. I recommend the Chateau HÙtel de la MessardiËre in Ramatuelle, the Chateau HÙtel Valmer in Gigaro, and a quaint little brasserie called Coleurs Julien in Gigaro (Like "Le Ti" in its early days). Visit around 9 at night, order a pichet of house wine, get the seafood and bread, wander through the back door directly to the beach after the repas...but I digress....
Of course, I would set a goal to just drive in the hills, stopping at every p‚tisserie, boulangerie, confiserie and rÙtisserie along the way, enjoying the true european culture, living for the joys of the day, with a good feeling of community....calme et tranquille.......My only word of warning - watch out for a man at Plage de Pampellone, usually very relaxed and holding a coupe of champagne after anchoring his boat offshore. Upon inquiry, he will identify himself with the nom de plume of "Nick the Dog". Be careful.



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gregb
Unregistered




Re: Cote d'Azur new [Re: Lauren]
      #6384 - 07/31/03 07:01 PM

Lauren, Thanks for the very informative post on the south of France--my wife has been dying to go there and after a recent vacation with parisian friends in guadeloupe the fire has been re-stoked. Here are two links to two chateau's referred to in your post:

www.messardiere.com/

www.cote.azur.fr/hotel_chateau-de-valmer-la-croix-valmer_934.htm

Hope there links work and would like to hear a trip report from someone either at these places or others visiting Cote d'Azur


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Lauren



Reged: 10/10/02
Posts: 1332
Re: Cote d'Azur/Paris P‚tisseries & Chocolateries new [Re: ]
      #6412 - 08/01/03 12:53 PM

gregb,

Thought I would send along some of my favorite P‚tisseries and chocolateries in Paris, in order of my favorites:

LadurÈe (16, rue Royale also Champs ElysÈe, other locations) Tea Room upstairs, Hot Choc., Macaroons

Gerard Mulot (76, rue de Seine) Lemon Tart, Macaroons, many items of wonder

Poujauran (20, rue Jean Nicot) Breads, Macaroons, old style French

Stohrer (51, rue Montorgueil) Since 1730 ,une Pithivier, aka une Galette des Rois

Dalloyau (63, rue de Grenelle and Rue Faubourg Saint Honore) Le Dalloyau, Mogador, Macaroons, Invented Opera Cake

Angelina (226, rue de Rivoli) Hot Chocolate, Mont Blanc

Berthillon Glacier (31, rue St Louis en Óle) Coffee, Chestnut & Chocolate & Sorbets

Debauve et Gallais (30 rue des Saints-Peres) Chocolatier - Jacob, Bonaparte

Christian Constant (37 rue d'Assas) Banana Tart, Choc. Ice Cream, Hot Choc., Patisseries

La Maison du Chocolat (225, rue de Faubourg Saint-Honore)
Hot Choc - Caracas, Seville, Bacchus, Guayaquil

Coquelin Aine (67, rue de Passy) Chestnut Ice Cream, Ali Baba, Puits d'Amour

La Mere Michel / Christiane Simone (44, rue Olivier-de-Serres) Commercy Madeleines, Nancay Shortbread, Sweeties from Rheims

Le Duc de Preslin (44, ave Montaigne) Bonbons - Amanda, Lyette, Mirabo, Passion

La Vieille France (14, rue de Buci) Sanflorain, Salammbo, Religeuse

Le Carrousel (194, rue de Rivoli) Croque-Monsieur

Lina's (50, rue Etienne-Marcel) Brownies


Also, I guess you will take a domestic Air France or other airline to the south of France. If you drive, do the stretch between Paris and Bourgogne (3 hours if no traffic coming out of Paris). Stay in the Beaune area. In the town of Beaune (busy, traffic, hard to park), I recommend the L'Hotel. Stayed there this year, great room, fabulous bath room and shower, wonderful service, only 7 rooms.
Also, see the medieval wonderland of Dijon center, especially at night with the restaurants and little bÙites lit up with beautiful lanterns all through the cobblestoned streets. Gingerbread, wine and mustard (Monsier Grey met Monsier Poupon here), medieval restaurants. In Beaune, make sure you visit the cellars of Patriarche & Fils, wine negociants. They go on forever, and one pays a very small fee to taste maybe ten or twelve good wines. A beautiful cave that goes under many streets in the town, and a pleasant dÈgustation awaits the visitor.

If you desire to stay in the Provence hills, I found a place that has a vista to die for, near Gordes. It is the HÙstellerie Les Bories, and they have a pool and spa overlooking the valley, with a terraced restaurant. Nearby, visit Les Baux de Provence, Gordes (perched village), the Abbaye de SÈnanque (beautiful fields of lavender bloom in the early summer - 1150 AD Abbey in a very meditative environment).

‡ la prochaine........


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Lauren



Reged: 10/10/02
Posts: 1332
Re: CÙte d'Azur new [Re: Cheri]
      #6413 - 08/01/03 01:04 PM

Cheri,

Failed to mention the following:

Mougins - a gentrified perched village with cozy restaurants, winding streets and little shops.

St Jean Cap Ferrat - Before you get to the quiet streets with high hedges protecting the maisons of the sheiks and princes, go to the Ephrussi Rochschild Museum near the entrance to the Cap Ferrat peninsula.

Take care.


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gregb
Unregistered




Re: Cote d'Azur/Paris P‚tisseries & Chocolateries new [Re: Lauren]
      #6414 - 08/01/03 01:20 PM

For sure I have to increase the gym workouts and jogging before booking a south of france/paris trip--in fact just reading the list is having the salutory effect where it is much easier to pass on even looking over dessert menus.

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gregb
Unregistered




Re: Cote d'Azur/Paris P‚tisseries & Chocolateries new [Re: Lauren]
      #6425 - 08/01/03 06:11 PM

Hi Lauren,

Have you ever used www.alloresto-resa.com to make restaurant reservations in Paris--or do you know of another reservation service, or is it best to just call or fax a reservation request? Also have you also perhaps used www.resto.fr for help in choosing restaurants? Merci


Edited by gregb (08/01/03 06:20 PM)


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Lauren



Reged: 10/10/02
Posts: 1332
Re: French web links for travel planning/reference new [Re: ]
      #6435 - 08/01/03 11:14 PM

gregb,

I have used those web sites to research restaurants. Normally, I like to visit the particular restaurant when possible, to look at the menu and seating areas, then make a reservation myself by phone or fax, also by e-mail if available. However, I find that talking to the restaurant is better. Sometimes I will inquire at the hotel regarding nice restaurants in the areas I visit, and sometimes I have the hotel make the reservation, as I think that is a good introduction-they want business and they wonít burn the hotel with a bad table or service. I also use the following sites which may be helpful to your planning:

http://paris.planresto.fr/
http://www.paris.org/Index/
http://www.parispourvous.com/index.php3?wpe=c5
http://www.parisnotes.com/

http://www.infogreves.com/new-greves.php3
(Navigate to search for strikes in France that may hinder your travel)

http://wge.pagesjaunes.fr/pj.cgi?
(Navigate to find people, places. Also, to the right you may use an address or the street map to find a picture of the faÁade / streetscape for anywhere in Paris or other major town - a real nice filtering tool)

http://www.bison-fute.equipement.gouv.fr/
(For those who want to see where the traffic is creating problems in Paris)

http://www.expatica.com/france.asp
(For those who want to move to France, or relocate for a while)

http://www.doucefrance.com/

http://www.a511.com/
(A reference for all French departments with links)

http://www.utm.edu/departments/french/french.html
(The largest and best collection of French web links on the web)

http://www.maporama.com/share/
(Better visuals than Mapquest and a French map site)

http://hosting-internet.com/Fr/Fr/divers/moteurs/Pays_France.htm
http://www.lesmoteursderecherche.com/liens/search.php3
(In case you get bored, several hundred francophone web moteurs and annuaires)

http://www.giga-presse.com/
(761 journals and magazines in French)


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gregb
Unregistered




Re: French web links for travel planning/reference new [Re: Lauren]
      #6451 - 08/02/03 07:56 PM

Hi Lauren,

And is there a best time of year to attempt a Paris plus south of france two week trip with the time parameter of sometime between late march to mid august?


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Lauren



Reged: 10/10/02
Posts: 1332
Re: French web links for travel planning/reference new [Re: ]
      #6452 - 08/02/03 08:34 PM

gregb,

The best time of year will occur when American and French schoolchildren are in school. There are three regions of France that operate with corresponding vacations, kind of like the Pentagon staggering the hour when everyone leaves so that the traffic is not snarled. The permutations are not difficult, but require research on a yearly basis. Ever since Napoleon decided that all school kids would study the same thing everywhere in France at the same time, the centralization of educational administration became easier, and isn't that a good idea? One can move and little Jean-Charles can continue his studies uninterrupted anywhere else in France. Anyway, I would try for sometime in late May early June. My other favorite time would be late September early October, but not in Bourgogne or Bordeaux wine areas, as the vendange may occur at these times.
Here is a web site that updates the calendar for the school children in France every year. Whether you take your own children or not, it is best to avoid the times when Paris and France take vacations. There are Catholic holidays endemic to France that also must be avoided. Research the calendar and good luck. Of course, if you are headed to the beach, summer is your best bet. Probably mid June to the first week in July. Otherwise, the enormous wave of those on their vacances will certainly disturb your travels.
Link:
http://www.education.gouv.fr/prat/cal.htm

Good luck in your travels.
Lauren


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Cheri



Reged: 10/13/02
Posts: 1689
Loc: St. Louis, Missouri
Re: French web links for travel planning/reference new [Re: ]
      #6478 - 08/03/03 12:32 PM

Hi Lauren,

Thanks so much for all the recommendations! I'm keeping a 'France list' of places to see, things to do, etc. so I will add your suggestions to the list (thanks to Gayle R from the forum for contributing as well). It's all very overwhelming and to give you an idea of where we're at--among the books we've obtained for research is 'The Complete Idiot's Guide to Paris'. Not far from the truth! Lots of plain and simple tips though.

We've got a great travel agent and with her advice, we have narrowed our Paris hotel location down to the Latin Quarter/St-Germain-des-Pres area. Now, just to choose.....must make our decision soon because time is running short.

We'll be flying into Nice, most probably staying there. We are renting a car and we intend on seeing as much of the coast of the Cote d'Aure, from St. Tropez to Monte Carlo, as time permits. We intend on visiting some of the hill towns beyond as well.

So, thanks again. We're so excited!

Best regards,

Cheri





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LauraB



Reged: 10/08/02
Posts: 199
Loc: NC, USA
Re: French web links for travel planning/reference new [Re: Cheri]
      #6483 - 08/03/03 03:33 PM

That's the area I've chosen for all three of my Paris visits! The Latin quarter (5th arr.) is either livley or noisy and trashy, depending on your attitude and age. The 7th arr. is either sleepy or sophisicated and serene, again depending on your age and attitude. That area is full of antique shops, but there are few cafes or people about. The best shopping and streetlife (for me) was in the 6th, esp. around Rue de Rennes and Blvd. St. Germain. There is a mix of boutiques and famous brand stores at all price points. Often the most interesting boutiques and cafes are on the side streets. If you'll be using the Metro to get around, it helps to be near the no. 4 line. (Sometimes a car is a curse!) Just like the lodgings in St. Barths, there are plenty of right answers and very few wrong ones. Happy planning!!

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