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Our two previous trips to Italy had not been without incident. In September of 2001 we were on a train departing Santa Maria Novella in Florence when we got the World Trade Center news. In 2003 we were in Venice when the call came that my wife's father had passed away. So this year we were hoping for the best.

We arrived in Milan on May 21 and drove to the wonderful old city of Parma. The Hotel Verdi provided us with a nice location just across the street from the municipal park and thus a short walk to the historic center. Two very nice days in Parma gave us the opportunity to attend the opera, feast on wonderful food (of special note was the Santa Croce Ristorante right next to the hotel), and wander the streets of the old city. We loved watching the Parma residents ride their bicycles to their daily appointments - no matter what the age, no matter what the dress (high heel pumps included). Laden with hunks of prosciutto and parmigiana reggiano we took our leave.

Our next stop was our third visit to La Doccia, a restored monastery high in the Tuscan hills just above the tiny town of Pelago, and just a short train ride to Florence. The lovely woods of Vallambrosa (immortalized by John Milton) are a short distance from the house. This is one of our favorite places - wonderful, spacious rooms, a great dining terrace facing the sunset, and of course Edward and Sonia Mayhew, the most gracious hosts you'll ever find. Four nights were set aside for their hospitality. La Doccia is so centrally located that you are never far from any of the "musts" in Tuscany. On this trip we drove to La Verna in the Casentino and hiked to the monastery of St. Francis, visited our favorite vineyards in Chianti country, visited the old city of Arezzo, lounged on the terrace, and ate two dinners at a wonderful, tiny osteria in Pelago where the table is yours for the evening.

We are always sad to bid farewell to La Doccia, but Umbria was calling. Our destination - Le Silve di Armenzano, one of the "Romantik" hotels, high in the mountains above Assisi, surrounded by a nature preserve. A short drive from the ancient city on a narrow, winding road brought us to the lovely, restored hotel which occupies a seat that provides views in all directions. While here, we visited the walled, tiny city of Todi, explored the atmospheric Assisi, and hiked the nature preserve among the deer and beautiful birds. Indeed, there were so many birds and their song so constant, that we wished we had a recording to take home. The meals here were five-course and gourmet, included in the price, and non-restrictive (i.e. anything on the menu). Their wine selection was superb.

After four nights at Le Silve, we climbed into our Alfa Romeo (diesel not sports car) for the trip to Porto San Stefano on the coast of the Maremma. From here we just made our scheduled ferry to the tiny island of Giglio. At Porto Giglio we were met by Angelo and a small boat which transported us to the south end of the island (no roads there) and Pardini's Hermitage. What a find! Sitting on a rock promontory, 230 feet above the turquoise sea is Pardini's villa. Reached by a series of steps carved into the rock, the journey up brought us past planned sitting areas with hammocks, swings, and lounges. Lined with flowers and plants the stairway led to the veranda. Luckily our luggage was being transported via a lift system, so it arrived before we did. One of the guests, a British woman, was sipping wine on the terrace, and greeted us with, "Welcome to Paradise!" - It certainy was. "Ghigo" (Frederigo) Pardini has constructed a unique and fabulous getaway. Raising his own goats, sheep, and pigs, he makes his own cheeses and hams. Baking is done on the premises, as is the pasta making. One garden provides the greens and vegetables ("biologica" says Pardini - i.e. organic), while the other garden, the sea, supplies the table with baby octopus, squid, grouper, prawns, etc., etc., etc. Three meals are taken here, and each one is a special treat. A slice of Ghigo's own ricotta on a plate with honey is something to daydream about for weeks to come. Two coves are set aside for swimming, and lounges are provided on decks built at different levels among the rocks. A stroll through the garden will lead you to surprises such as a saltwater hydro therapy pool, an exercise pavillion, small cottages for guests, and the animal corrals with donkeys, chickens, goats, sheep and pigs. Our room was in the main house and was quite tiny, but our terrace! - three times as large and looking out over the sea. This is not a place to stay indoors. The dining room which provided seating for 36 guests (a full house, or houses if you will) is enclosed with large glass windows which afford a constant view of the ever-changing sea. We hiked along the rocky coast and spine of the island, sometimes through wildflowers up to our armpits, three and one half miles to the walled fortress city of Castello.The city dates back to the middle ages. The streets are narrow passages which barely provide room for two people walking abreast, other hikes will take you to old lighthouses, barren coatlines, or the tiny Porto Giglio with its fishing boats and shops. Or simply relax around Pardini's, sipping wine or an after meal Vin Santo, and feel tour metabolism slow to an imperceptible pace.

We had three nights here; next time we will plan more. Angelo returned us to our morning ferry, and we sailed back to he coast. A three hour journey northward brought us to the Cinque Terre, five ancient towns, again no cars, linked by footpath, train, and boat.We parked in a lot on the outside of the old town of Monterosso and a free cab drove us to the Hotel Porto Roca, built into the cliffside just above the famous Cinque Terre path. This is Liguria, the home of pesto, seafood, and sciacchetra (a desert wine made from dried grapes that provides tastes of apricot, pear, and other wonderful things. Here we enjoyed the sunny beach, hiked 7 miles along the path through the unbelievably picturesque towns of Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and tiny Riomaggiore, hiked to the town of Levanto, and ate whatever was suggested at the wonderful restaurants:fresh anchovies with balsamic vinegar, gnocchi, baby octopus and squid, and pesto, pesto, pesto - three or four varieties. We were thankful for the hiking. Otherwise we would have needed a crane to remove us from the Cinque Terre where we spent four glorious nights.

Finally we were off to Bellagio on lovely Lake Como. Our tiny hotel, La Pergola, was a short walk over the hill to the shore on the eastern side of Bellagio's peninsula - an important location, because even though you are staring at the snow capped Alps, it can get quite warm. La Pergola and our terrace enjoys shade the entire afternoon. A pleasant restaurant is operated on a terrace beneath a covering of grape vines (not so good if it rains, but un 21 days we had only one morning of rain in Assisi). We explored the lake by boat, taking in the lovely villas as we disembarked where fancy led us. Evenings were spent ducking in and out of Bellagio's interesting shops on ladder-like streets climbing upward from the lake.Three nights flew by, and soon it was time for us to fly as well.

Our morning non-stop from Milan (2 hours away), was right on time. Our time was perfect - almost three weeks to keep us dreaming of future strolls among the affable Italians in their beautiful country, wonderful meals on lovely terraces, superb wines, and of course, daily infusions of gelato in every flavor imaginable.

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