Palmer St Barts Trip - Nov 18th to 25th, 2014

For our third full day at St Barts, we decided to take things a bit easy, after having a very full and busy first two days.

We started off with our usual Saline swim. The beach was somewhat eroded this morning, and there was more seaweed, and more seaweed constantly coming in. The water was pretty clear of it when we got in, but an hour later it was really too much to enjoy swimming in. It was a lot less wavy though, and I'd say it was more fun to swim in, with big swells to ride, rather than crashing waves pushing us around.

After breakfast at the cottage, we headed out to Shell Beach to do some snorkelling. My wife had never gone before so it was a bit of an adventure. She was very nervous about it, and she had some trouble getting the mask to seal properly, but in the end she was starting to get the hang of it As for myself, I wasn't sure if I'd get snorkelling, as I have some light sensitivity issues, but I tried the goggles I bought yesterday, and they worked great. I was even able to attach the snorkel to them. In the end we saw several varieties of fish, and had a good time. Those shells at that beach though, they get everywhere! It was quite the chore cleaning them off later.

After snorkelling, we stopped at a supermarket in Gustavia, and picked up some cheeses, and then went to a patisserie (I forget the name, it's across from the post office), picked up some bread and some sweet treats - a kind of pastry that looked like a sandwich bun with cream in the middle, a raspberry tart, and these little sandwich cookies. We had lunch back at the cottage - bread and cheeses and veggies, with the treats from the patisserie for dessert.

The afternoon we just spent lounging around the cottage. We skyped back home and talked to my parents and our 4 year old son, and just relaxed and took it easy.

For supper, we went to L'Esprit. WOW - we both thought this was possibly the best meal we'd ever had. What was amazing about the meal was it was mainly a combination of things I didn't like. One of the little appetizers they brought out was mahi mahi tampura on shredded zuccini. I don't like fish, and I don't like zuccini, but it was really tasty. We also has the cockels with foie gras chips. Again, I don't like seafood, I didn't really like the foie gras we tried at M&P, and it also had asparagus, which I don't like. But it was so incredibly yummy anyways. Then they brought out this mint ice to cleanse our palates, and our main course was pigeon with a celeriac pie. For dessert, we had pistachio raspberry cake with lemongrass jelly and lime mousse. To drink we had a Lemon Tree Sour. It was all delectable. We were also really impressed, that when we told them we were sharing everything, they split each item up into two smaller portions, so we still each had our own plate of nicely arranged food. So few restaurants do this, and it makes such a huge difference to us.

After dinner, we came back to the cottage, and went for a night-time swim in the pool. And that ends another wonderful day in St Barts! Tomorrow our plan is to do the Washing Machine hike, and try a second go at snorkelling at Shell Beach.
 
Thanks for another great report.

I love the bit about weird/unliked foods combining to become something wonderful.

Another good beach adventure is the "hike" (walk) to Colombier. Hopefully you'll have enough time to get that one in.
 
Thanks guys!

Andy - I hope to get pictures up soon - I might add them in to all the posts once we're back home from the trip.

Bart - ColOmbier :)D) is our plan for Monday morning. Jean-Philippe recommended we not do Colombier on the weekend as it will be busier then.
 
We had another great day today on St Barts!

We started out with our usual swim at Saline. We were hoping it would have improved from the day before, but it was pretty much the same. We found a small place to swim, but after about 15 minutes, even that was filled with seaweed, so we got out and just walked along the beach for a bit. At lunch, one of the other couples told us that Governeur isn't bad at all, so I think we're going to try that instead tomorrow.

After lunch, we went off to do the "Washing Machine" hike, to the natural pools. This was such a fun hike! It was definitely a bit of a tougher, more adventurous, hike, than we were expecting, but we thoroughly enjoyed it. The views were spectacular, and there were many mountain goats, including a mother and two babies, to be seen, often only about 20-30 feet away from us. We waded in the natural pools for quite awhile, enjoying watching the waves crash against the side, and then made the hike back. I love a good hike, and this was one of the best I've ever done - definitely a big highlight of the trip.

By time we got back to the car, we were famished. We had wanted to check out something a little more local, so we drove to Cayes and visited Chez Yvon for lunch. We had the beef with shallot sauce, with frites, as well as a chicken salad. It ended up being nothing amazing, to be honest, but the restaurant had a quite a few guests, that I believe were all local, and we enjoyed hearing people talk in French in a variety of accents.

After lunch, we took a stroll through Cayes down to the beach. The water was very rough, rocky, and seaweedy - definitely not a place to swim, but we are continually amazed at how many beaches are on the island and how each one has its own character.

For the afternoon, we decided to try snorkelling again, and we headed out to Shell Beach. My wife again had issues with getting a good fit with her mask (we even switched up masks this time around), and had a bit of a frustrating experience. She got to see a few fish here and there, but eventually gave up, but I continued on, going along the eastern cliff wall, where I saw a couple large (30+) schools of fish, some coral, and some very large sea urchins.

Next we went to the supermarket, picked up a few more groceries, and came back to the cottage to have another homemade meal of bread, cheese, fruits, and veggies, and have spent the rest of the evening just lounging around the cottage.

For tomorrow, we plan on visiting the Anglican Church for their Sunday morning service, probably lounging around St Jean beach in the afternoon, and L'Isola for dinner in the evening.
 
Great reports -- so fun to read! They take me back many years to the first visit Wendy & I made to St. Barths -- some things change, but never the enthusiasm / pleasure of discovering SBH in all its incarnations.
 
The fun-filled days on St Barts just keep on coming - it's too bad the trip is soon coming to an end!

Today we decided on our early morning swim to go to Gouverneur, as the seaweed had been building up over the past few days to the point of not really being fun to swim in. Gouverneur had very little seaweed, but most of the water was very rough. We tried to swim at the end farthest away from the entry point, but after getting knocked right off my feet by a big wave, we decided to walk down the beach and try to find a better spot. We found that in the 50 or so feet closest to the entrance, the water was calmer. The undertow was still stronger here than at Saline, but overall the swim was very nice. It did end up raining for about 15 minutes of our swim, but when you're already in the water, what's the harm in getting a little more wet?

After breakfast at the cottage, we went down to the Anglican Church for the Sunday morning service. Unfortunately, we got the times mixed up, and instead of being quite early, we were quite a bit late. We were still able to attend for the last half of the service, and got to talk to several of the attendees afterwards and get to know them a little bit. It seemed that at least half of the attendees were visitors, rather than residents, which is perhaps not surprising as it's the only English-speaking church on the island.

Next we went to St Jean and went for a swim. The beach was lined with all the catamarans from the Cata Cup, and Nikki Beach was teaming with people for their Sunday afternoon party. Away from that area things were pretty quiet, with only a small handful of people swimming.

We started to feel a bit hungry, and so drove down to Lorient and ate at Le Bouchon. We had an Indian chicken panini and a salad, with creme brulee for dessert.

KevinS and his wife were gracious enough to contact us through these forums and invite us over to their beachfront villa for drinks and snacks and lovely conversation. It was a real treat to sit down and chat with a wonderful couple who have been coming out to this island for more than 30 years - thanks again KevinS for your hospitality!

For supper, we went to L'Isola. We had spinach and ricotta ravioli, as well as risotto with wild boar, topped off with profiterole for dessert. Our waiter had a very thick Italian accent, and I have to admit that hearing him describe in detail all of the day's specials was half of the fun of the evening.

And that's it for another day - we're back at the cottage, relaxing, and looking forward to our final full day on the island. Tomorrow we plan on heading to Colombier beach.
 
Are you taking the upper path or the lower path to Colombier beach? The upper path is a bit more strenuous.
 
Tim - we plan on taking the lower path. we're going to be carrying beach supplies, snorkel equipment, and our lunch - no need to make things any more difficult!
 
Really sorry to have missed you at church.I would have liked to meet you.That was me playing the guitar at the front,and Pat did the second reading.Enjoy the rest of your trip
 
I am truly enjoying seeing St Barth through your eyes. It appears as though you are accomplishing quite a bit in a short amount of time. Visiting the Anglican Church on my most recent visit was a highlight of my trip. Charles's gentle deliver of God's word is a soothing salve to a parched soul! The chorale and musicians bring an energy to that lovely old building on Sunday mornings that even the sugar birds flock to the sanctuary to hear!

Thank you for bringing us along on your holiday.
 
So today was our last day in St Barts. We're looking forward to going home and seeing our son again, but wow, what an amazing trip!

We started the day with our usual morning swim, this time at Gouverneur again. We got caught in a torrential downpour for several minutes while we were swimming, but it was well worth it, as we were rewarded with a fulll double rainbow, the biggest and clearest we've ever seen.

After our breakfast at the cottage, we went to Colombier beach. We took the "easy" trail, which was a bit more arduous than we thought it would be (although still nothing like the Washing Machine hike). We saw lizards and turtles and butterflies on the trail, and such great views! We really enjoyed where you can stand at one spot and see the windward and leeward sides of the island at the same time, seeing the waves making huge crashes (where you can feel the spray hit you a hundred feet up from the water) and on the other side, the water is totally calm.

Despite how difficult it is to reach the beach, Colombier was easily the busiest of any of the beaches we visited, and we could quickly see why. There was virtually no seaweed, and the water was very calm, the easiest to swim in of any of the beaches.

My wife decided to forgo snorkelling, after having a frustrating time before, and after seeing how far she'd have to swim from the beach to be able to see much, so i headed out on my own. The snorkelling was really great - I saw a lot of fish and coral, and a lot of things that I wasn't even sure what they were. There was one sea creature in particular, that I don't think was a fish exactly, as it had long wavy fins on the side instead of on top and undreneath, that was fascinating to watch, especially as it was able to swim forwards and backwards. I wouldn't mind any feedback if someone knows what I saw - when I have a faster internet connection I'll put up a video I took of it, and maybe someone can chime in on what it was.

Around Colombier, we also enjoyed exploring around where there are some ruins of stone stairs and a dock, I'm assuming as part of the what the Rockefellers built. We had a picnic lunch there (including bread we picked up from La Petite Colombe on the way), and then did the hike back to Flamands. The wind had really picked up and the hike back was a little more scary - the wind was enough to make balancing a bit tricky at times.

In the afternoon, we went and did a bit of shopping in St Barts. We picked up a couple beach bags from Loulou's Marina, and a few toys from the local toy store for our son. We also took some time to look at some of the fancier stores. In the Cartier store, we had to wait until the store person unlocked the door for us to get in, and in the Ralph Lauren store, a woman followed us around everywhere we went making sure we weren't getting into trouble (or taking pictures). Other store experiences were more fun. The "Time" store had all sorts of interesting watches, including a B.A.R. watch that I would have loved to have - unfortunately I was about 42000 Euros shy.

For supper we went to Pipiri Palace. We had the onion soup, the rack of lamb with spicy mint sauce, and Tarte Tain with Salted Caramel for dessert. It was all so delicious, especially the lamb. We thought it was on par with the fancier restaurants like M&P and L'Izola, even though it was a bit cheaper. The staff there were also incredibly friendly. We'd highly recommend the place.

And that's about it - we're now back at the cottage getting things packed up. We're hoping to do one final early morning swim tomorrow, and then it's back on the ferry (for a hopefully calmer ride) and then flying home to Canada from St Maarten.

Again, I must say that this was an incredible trip! If and when we come back to the Caribbean, I am sure this will be our destination.

Once we're home and have a better internet connection, I'll try to intersperse some photos of our trip, and perhaps give some final thoughts.
 
Safe travels. Glad that you got to Pipiri, a favorite of ours, it had not been opened yet for our visit earlier this month. Will get there the next time. Great atmosphere, good food, blues music, and a polite and caring staff.
 
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