St Barts Trip Report

June 1 - 30, 2003
by Seles

Beginning a trip report is often like packing to leave St. Barths...something you think about, try not to think about, and then the procrastination sets in when you return to reality. This report will vary from my norm and include only highlights while being "Embedded on St. Barths for June".

June 1 was the perfect travel day, up at 7am, off to the airport in Charleston, SC, USAir to Charlotte, a quick transition to USAir to SXM. One movie and several Bloody's and we were there. We always use Bevin with St. Barths Services and as usual, we were really glad we did...again, many on the flight didn't make it to SB until the last flight. We arrived SXM at 2:05PM & on SB at 2:40.

We grabbed our car and spoke with some friends who met us there and then to L'Ecume de Mer at Mont Jean. St. Barths Services delivered the luggage about 4PM. The Island is very green with bursts of rain all spring, in fact, the greenest I've ever seen it. And the mosquitos were confined to low lying areas where the wind did not blow. It was good to be 'home on SB'.

Lu and I had three different times on St. Barths in June. The first 10 days to ourselves, the next ten with our two daughters and sons in law and almost 4 year old Devon, our son we never had (grandson), and then again the last 10 days to ourselves again.

For the first part of the trip I must say I was amazed at the following:
1~Governeur had eroded horribly for about 130 meters new the center of the beach. We still love it.
2~Just realizing the price difference compared to many previous years with the EURO strong against the DOLLAR.
3~How good Gaiic can be for dinner and Sunday Brunch when the Master Chef is on the Island...best dinners I've ever had anywhere!
4~The pineapple & ham pizza at Andy's...I'm sure the pineapple crop in Guateloupe has now been depleted & the jambon is scarce!
5~Just how nicely a group of SBH Onliners can get along at a cocktail party when nobody really knows anyone else. Everyone who signed for the changed date came and hopefully enjoyed. We certainly did.
6~How much Margaux and Champagne we can drink. And how many times we had to have deliveries.
7~Unfortunately, how awful an American can be in a nice restaurant when they 'simply don't understand' the customs and normalities these part time locals are taught so diligently.
8~How good of idea it was to take 4 pounds of Jamaican Blue Mountain Coffee and remember to turn on the maker the night before.
9~And how good the Expresso is when made with a cylinder machine and great beans.
10~How good Mayas To Go can be for lunch at the villa, particularly the skewered shrimp, citrus potats and parmesian salads with their special, ever changing dressings.
11~And as I always say, how good it is to take Laurent Perrier Rose Champagne and breakfast to Governeur at sunrise.
12~How beautiful Columbier was on a Wednesday with nobody but us on the beach and only one other boat, the old steamer crate that seems to never move.
13~How beautiful Sally Field is in person. Just pure class.
14~How nice it is to watch the sunrise from a Hammock when it seems you're the only person on SB awake.
15~How 2 people long married can play 'stupid swimming pool games' supposedly to pass the time, yet it was just too much fun.
16~How gorgeous the surrounding Islands look from a boat when its a flat day on the water and an easy ride.
17~Just how good Eddys, Paridisio, Francois, Gaiic, Mayas and Carl Gustaf can be. And just how good the fried chicken is beside the Bakery near the poste in Gustavia...sorry I don't know the name, but she sure knows mine. Probably had fried chicken 4 times. And just how good Le Creperie is for breakfast and lunch.

The first part came to a close bringing our family to join us via the same route we followed. Of course the only difference was the girls and guys were happy to return and see old friends who live on the Island and reacquaint themselves with a part of their upbringing, with Devon visiting for the third time...only this time he is old enough to remember it. He was loads of fun, amazed at the little things we often overlook, like the ants, geikos, tiny hummingbirds, the "big mountains", the rain over the ocean, the "Airplane Beach" and too much more to even mention. His French is very good as his mom is fluent and he has been taught well.

Lu & I cared for Devon along with help from a Caretaker each day. The children seemed to enjoy the freedom and except for dinner every night and 2 days on the boat, there was never an agenda. It was peaceful, rewarding and gave us both hope for our family always being a part of this special place.

A few highlights:
1~Son in law Justin owes me $40 million from Billiards.
2~Son in law Burt will never keep ordering different kinds of oysters from around the world at Carl Gustaf as he probably owes me a similar amount.
3~After sisters/daughters attain the age of 21, they are less likely to argue. And more likely to discover good wines.
4~La Luna, where everybody has to go a few times, will never be the same...I think the girls pictures are hung over the bar.
5~Devon was too much fun. Learned to swim while there. Learned not to say 'boobies' anymore after about 3 days. Learned how to catch geikos by giving them grapes. He thinks Andy is the 'tallest man in the world'. And he thinks the Ice Cream near La Marine is the best in the world.

6~FATHER'S DAY on St. Barths with your family.

Everyone departed after 10 wonderful days with great sadness leaving Lu & I to plan out the last 10 days. We were a little stressed and did not know it from 'chasing Devon'. But it sure was fun making those memories that will last forever for he and us. The children arrived safely at home about 9PM after leaving SB at 1:00PM.

And we were off to Nikki Beach for their Thursday barbeques, which several places (Christopher Hotel, etc.) are doing during the week for $12-18 Euros...check the daily paper. Had a great time, and unlike many, I don't see Nikki as stuffy or cold, yet French reserved to Americans so often. We had a blast, met some locals there and partied late. Then off to La Luna about midnight to dance.

For several who have inquired, no need to go to La Luna until very late (11-12) unless you wish to be alone. And its strange, but quite the same every night. Dancing to the right of the bar by Americans, French and others. Sitting to the left by mostly Americans and a few locals having parties. But a nice addition, well managed and quite good service.

It took a day or two to recover from Devon and then La Luna, but by Saturday we were back to a routine of beaching early, home by 11am and off to lunch around 2pm. Siestas and fun around home late afternoon, sometimes with local friends, sometimes not, and then late dinners. WOW! The Margaux and Champagne started disappearing again.

The weekend brought the Music Festival for competing DJ's from St. Martin and SB. It was fun as we tried several at Nikki Beach, La Luna, Manapany and Le Ti-St. Barths, which was allowed to stay open until 4am Saturday.

Sunday brought a cheerful/tearful surprise. We always go to the Anglican Church in Gustavia for services, but the Reverend spoke of friends and members elsewhere whom he had ministered to during cancer, and how some had recovered and how some had not. It was touching as our oldest daughter would have the second cancer surgery on July 1 upon our return. Now we know his comfort that Sunday for us was truly a gift. For those who have never been to this church, we encourage you to go...its beautiful, has a wonderful history and is truly on a hot Sunday morning the most peaceful, serene and 'cool' place I have ever been.

The last week was spent beaching, shopping (now that the dollar had some slight gain to the EURO), dining, and of course, trying to figure out why the Margaux and Champagne was disappearing!

Le Ti-St. Barths is trying a new, more aggressive menu as they semi-convert to more of a restaurant and less of a late night, nightclub. It was excellent. We had lamb and tuna citrus which was fabulous.

A good friend who is involved with Guanihani called Monday and brought over 4 live lobsters (500g each) and we took care of them and grilled for dinner...quite an experience as I have only grilled the 'fresh ones' and never prepared lobster. Better than going out for sure!

While in St. Barths we found that life goes on. Our friends who live there are pregnant, Benoit who had an almost tragic accident in June, 2002, has fully recovered and riding a motorcycle again, Lu's first cousin was tragically killed in an auto accident in Charlotte, NC and her sister was married on June 28 to a great guy. So, while you're away, life really does go on.

Friday was quite the memory as we decided to do our Favorite Things for 2003 in SB. We got up at 5:00am, watched the sunrise, had coffee, packed a cooler and were off to Governeur with breakfast and Champagne. About 11AM we returned, freshened and headed to La Plage for lunch and a couple of hours lounging. The winds were great at St. Jean, unusual for June. We returned home and hung out around the pool, napped for a while and then dressed to watch sunset at Carl Gustav. Great drinks and appetizers and then to dinner at Gaiic...just fabulous. Home about 11PM, redressed and then to La Luna to meet some friends. We danced, talked and watched a 'cruise crowd' of 8 until 3am...thankfully we went home and slept.

Reflections:
~Best and safest trip we ever had.
~Can't wait to go back this fall.
~Named the Iguana in the upper garden Petit Devon'.
~How quiet it is at sunrise on SB.
~Meeting all the kind SBH people.
~Meeting Joe and Diana of Contender Boats & their wonderful son Matt.
~Knowing that the sunsets on SB are better.
~Seeing the motorcycles going slower.
~Noting L'Oasis has caused other grocers to extend hours.
~Alexis is to open an everchanging nightclub in Lorient near L'Oasis in early December. It sounds very nice, no smoking, different entertainers, different kinds of music, etc.


Thank you Bob and Kara for this forum.

Terri, where are you?

A Bientot Vaness, Franc, Valarie, Christophe, Benoit, Cecile, Alexandra, Paul, Alexis, John and Jennifer.

Next time,

Ric and Lu

PS-I trust this bit of information will help someone as much as others have helped me on the Island. And I didn't intend it to be lengthy-sorry.

 

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