Trip Report: November 2003
by Beth
First off I want to thank everyone on this site for the wealth of information I accumulated prior to our first trip to what has to be the ultimate paradise. I have read everything there is about St. barts and without a doubt everyone here provides the most informative and updated and entertaining information around.
Flight down was a breeze. St. Martin airport was as humid as advertised but Winair got us on an earlier flight and we dive bombed into St. Barts 30 minutes early. Somehow the wonderful driver from Toiny knew we would be early and was waiting for us and we were soon on our way to our hotel. Erick, the driver for the hotel, was charming and full of good advice and seemed utterly content to live in the paradise that is St. Barts. The hotel is luscious. Beautiful bungalows with private pools. We settled in, took a walk out on the rocks and shared some champagne. Everything already felt magical.
Our first dinner was at the hotel. It is a beautiful dining room and the service was sensational. It was attentive without being intrusive and the food was quite good as well. We were in heaven. A short walk back to the room for some more champagne and a late night dip in the pool.
Day One; The next morning we headed out for our first beach experience. From everything we've read on this site, it was straight to Saline and what an experience it was! A deserted spot with beautiful, warm waters. I am hard pressed to remember a time when I felt more serene. We brought some wine from the mini-bar (advice to all: HIT THE MATCH we paid a BIG premium bring that wine). Nonetheless, a glass of sancerre before heading off to lunch was perfect.
Lunch was the Lafayette Club. It is a beautful spot and the famed pina coladas are outstanding. It was, however, very expensive. I would certainly return because it is a real experience but I might be slighly more judicious in what I order (perhaps just more pina coladas).
Dinner that night was lesprit. Just lovely. How cute is Christopher? The food was light and expertly prepared. The chef made the rounds after dinner to check up on everyone. It was a lovely experience which was, of course, finished with lemon grass rum which we ordered after hearing such raves on this site. It is worthy of the raves and more.
After dinner we headed home, raided the mini-bar one more time (still hadn't found the Match at this point) and relaxed in the nicest hotel we've ever stayed in. Toiny is really magical at night with the individual pools lit.
Day Two: Decided to try Gouveneur (sp?). Stopped at the match first and picked up some champagne and oj (prices cheaper than the hotel). What a drive to get there! Stunning! It is a lovely beach although parts a bit rocky. Mimosas and the solitude of the beach got us going on the "how can we move here question". Hubby wanted to try lunch at the Hideaway but I was looking for a luxe vacation. Poured me another glass of champagne and we were off to Andy's for lunch. Talk about love at first sight. Andy is simply charming and his food is delicious and his prices make you feel like perhaps your spending a bit too much everywhere else. What a great place. We would return
Feel like I am staring to drag on so here are a few more highlights:
Dinner day 2: the new Francois Plantation. Kind of quiet but excellent food. tres expensive!
Lunch day 3: back to Andy's!! The BEST part - Kara and Bob's book was there and we got a chance to discuss it with Andy. He is so delighted to be in it. We bought a copy and spent the afternoon fighting over it. We had thought that it wouldn't be that interesting to us before we went and assumed we would buy it when we got back. I only wished I had it a couple of weeks before we got done there and had time to study it. It was beautiful and the writing/stories were so fantastic to read. My husband and I felt more a part of the island at Andy's reading Paradise Found than I can describe. Special thank you to Kara and Bob for their wonderful book. You really have captured what is so special about the island.
Dinner day 3: my husband loved the eddy's story so off to Eddy's it was. We showed the waitress the book and she brough Bridgette over, who signed it, and later that evening we met Eddy who is as fascinating as Kara and Bob describe him. The food was also first rate.
Day 4: the weather was not that great so we decided to stay by our pool and read. Once again, we fought over Kara and Bob's book (we ultimately bought a second copy) and ventured out to lunch at Isle de France. It was very nice although the service left a little to be desired. Dinner was La Mandala. I can't rave enough.
Day 5: Le Select for lunch and Wall House for dinner. Caribe at Le Select were a highlight. As was our meal at Wall House. Dennis and Frank are as advertised. Truly nice people and talented chefs.
Day 6: Sadly heading home. I can say without hesitation that this was the most memorable vacation I have ever taken. What took me by surprise: the roads. What would I do differently: rent a villa. What was my favorite memory: feeling so completely in love with my husband of 15 years.
A big thank you to everyone for all the wonderful advice.
Beth
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